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Looking for helpful resources in / around Brussels. Eg a shop that could rebuild a final drive or source a used transfer box. Ideally in Brussels, but if I gotta do some driving so be it. Recommendations and thoughts appreciated! Matt

Lots of good advice out there on how to fix non- or semi-functioning electric Disco windows. But I didn't see a post that points out something that - now that I have done it backwards and wrong - seems obvious. Start with the quick and easy stuff. Assuming that there's no nasty noise coming...

Yep - I used have two clunks. When I replaced the A-frame balljoint one of them went away! That was a year ago. Same with the shimmy - there were more before I had the wheels balanced... actually, to be fair, there were more until I had the wheels balanced the second time. The first time I had...

(1) grease: greased and greased again. (2) bearing caps too far: don't think so - circlips just barely slipped in (3) don't think so either - the joint was moving well and nice and tight when I put it in. If a needle were out of place wouldn't the cap have sat proud of the circlip groove?

No lift.

GKN...

1998 Disco 1 with 280-ish km. Many of them offroad: lots of desert and riverbed miles on this drive-train. So a couple of weeks ago I changed the UJ bearing by the transfer box on the front propshaft, and now - after about 750 mostly highway miles - there’s already a little play in it. What’s...

New bumper caps - a little less touchy feely than the old soft plastic numbers, which just seemed to invite my fellow motorists in for a closer look...

Mine went bloody-minded (for a second time) six-months ago. Now I use Special Tool 6A - a small child: open one of the front doors and issue the instruction "crawl into the back and unlock the back door again would you?" Works a charm.

Mine went bloody-minded (for a second time) six-months ago. Now I use Special Tool 6A - a small child: open one of the front doors and issue the instruction "crawl into the back and unlock the back door again would you?" Works a charm. Not sure that Paddock has any left in stock though.

Having no fancy key fob to mess with (gone several owners back), and no desire to dig into the dashboard (at the time - done it since, of course) I ran a new wire from the ignition out to the fuel solenoid.

I dunno that you want to take my measurements - my Disco leans to the driver's side... but for they're worth I've got about 5 1/4 inches on the right hand side (your driver's side I imagine, my passenger) and about 4 3/4" on the left. Given that the springs are brand new, you might guess...

1. Valve clearances. 20 minutes to a sweeter sounding engine. Probably the best-spent time so-far on this vehicle from a pure satisfaction point of view. 2. Swivel seal. The seal itself was nice to do - no more dripping (well, from there anyway!) - but with the correct swivel pin pre-load she...

This isn't too relevant if you live in the land of readily available Landy parts, but out here a brand-new aftermarket windscreen (Plan A) for a 20-year old Disco is pretty well impossible to find: everybody said they had one, but it always turned out to be a Disco 2 windscreen - about an inch...

So to answer my own question - yep, it fits just fine and seems to run without a problem, at least for the first 100 miles.

So there's two sorts of dust seal for the front timing belt cover. There's bearing (after VA560897) and non-bearing (before). Anyone know if they are interchangeable? I've got an after-VA560897 300TDI, but only have been able to put my hands on a non-bearing seal. It looks and feels like it...

Crap - I posted that by accident - something about typing with two greasy fingers. Meant to go hit the thing a few times to see if there was a dust cap or something before posting. So I did, and it is. Problem solved. Next I'm going to see if I can ease out that crank shaft dust seal and re-use...

I'm halfway through changing the timing belt cover, it's all simple and easy except how do you get the A/C idler pulley off the old cover and onto the new? There's a threaded hole in the new one, but no obvious (obvious to me anyway) way to lock the wheel in the old cover and unthread it.

I need some shocks and / or a water pump dropped if possible. Cold beer naturally offered by way of appreciation.

Does an ARB-less Disco roll like a boat going around corners? I could handle stiffer shocks back there - that'd just bounce the kids around a bit more on bumps, right? A bit of shaking would probably do them good...