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Fitted two rear tub support rails - wrangled it without having to raise the tub too. One of them literally fell to pieces as I wrestled with it - I suppose it is 39 years old. The second one from the back probably gets most of the salt spray from the wheels as it's right beside them. The...

From your photo it looks like you have the lower mounted turbo from the Disco. If this is correct, then you can indeed fit a cut back TD downpipe and system. That's exactly what I fitted/have.

Fitted a new Panhard rod after noticing the bushes were shot - this was just a few days before the MoT, so there was a bit of a sweat to get the replacement in time. Passed first time and just one more MoT by my calculations before the old girl is 40yo and exempt!

You could also remove the cover of the wiper motor, there's a permanent live there (green). Short it with a bit of wire to one of the other wires.

You will see a multiplug on the bulkhead, I think it's a 10 way. The gauge plugs in at one end. On mine, there's only one way for a two way plug to fit.

I'd just add that an engine conversion can make a 90/110 much more driveable in modern traffic. The original 2.5d engines are much slower, and the turbo diesels have a reputation for overheating. A 90 with a Tdi is very driveable - even fun! You really need to see and drive the vehicle - there...

Buy the best ones you can afford - they will last much longer. Island 4x4 sell the "expedition" versions, with steel covers over the rubber seals (and grease nipples). Part code DA6356 Make sure they are the right ones for your vehicle - there are two different sizes!

Just another thought - any change when the steering is used? There are also the CV joints in the front swivels. If you were moving slowly with the steering near full lock you would usually hear something if one has gone. Fairly cheap fix, as with the propshafts.

Is the noise speed related? i.e. does it change as engine revs or road speed change? Is it only there on the move? It does sound like a propshaft UJ has let go to me, but I would expect that to be noticed by your gearbox guy.

I've fitted a set of Durite gauges - with an oil pressure gauge in the RH position, I already have a clock on the dashtop/watch/phone!

There seem to be two issues here - you need to sort the overheating first before the engine is damaged. The cooling systems on these engines are designed to cope with very hot weather, so should run coolish/take a while to warm up at this time of year. Once you have sorted the overheating and...

Looks like a hole for a choke cable/puller? Good to hear you're nearly there with the wiring.

That's exactly what's on the wiring diagram - as the wiring was "developed" from the SIII wiring, and that in turn from the older Series models, it could be the designer was trying to reduce the amount of wiring used due to post war shortages!

I think if you can download and print a copy of the wiring diagram and colour code (part of the workshop manual) it will make things much easier for you. The colours used are part of a british standard - e.g. red with a yellow trace should be the wire(s) from the fog light to the fog light...

Third/Fourth is the neutral position for the stick - in a LT77 anyway - I don't mean the gearbox is in neutral, it's where the selector bias springs are exerting their least force. It's quite likely a bit of wear and vibration means the bias springs are no longer acting on the selector lever at...

I've used Luminition on 4 and 8 cyl landys - well made and easy to install. Not cheap, but it did make them easier to start and performed flawlessly over years of use. Definitely more weather resistant that points too, and there's no wear as it's an optical system.

Yes and no! as usual. Red and yellow from the fog lamp to the fog lamp switch. Blue and purple from the switch to the fuse box (it should have it's own fuse). The power to that fuse does come from the lighting switch. It looks like it's spurred off at the back of the fuse box - fed by a blue...

Instead of the resistors, you can put a couple of diodes in the circuit at the indicator dash tell tale lamp - this is where both sides of the indicator circuit are joined - just one tell tale lamp for both sides. The diodes just let power flow in one direction and effectively isolate the...

As mentioned before, you need to "clock" your turbo - this means rotating the cold part of the turbo until it's facing upwards. Have a look at the Glencoyne Engineering website, or a few of my older posts re tips for a conversion. Bits of a 2.5NA exhaust will fit quite neatly to the clocked...