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My mrs got me this t'other year, and it smells like the real thing.

Check the tightness of the U bolts on the springs, also check for play in the 6 steering linkage rod ball joints and the steering box/steering relay, also have a look at the suspension bushes (thats a lovely job to do). Being a solid axle there should be no bump steer.

Should work fine. Connect the lead to the sender to ground, the guage should show max reading, if not meter the other connection to the guage to ground, you should get 10 volts, if not the the stabiliser is screwed, though this would cause the fuel guage not to work also. Maybe the guage...

Nope way off its not an A series, that went in the mini, allagro, austin 1300 and a few others not the landy.

Mine fetched nearly 150 quid early on in the spring of this year, and it was only a 3 bearing, the only thing going for it was that it had a electronic dizzy and all the ancills. Your whereabouts and the way you word eblag ads makes a big diffo.

One shot grease being viscous doesnt tend to leak out the seal the same, so you could get by with filling the housings with it for now. Some more experinced mot places will fail you with screwed balls, but nowadays a lot of places wont know to look. Newuns are not expensive, why not do them...

LWB are square blocks too. Maybe its a mil thing, or someones upgraded.

Looks as though its been on a while, so has done its job, so long as its structuraly sound. You might want to tidy things a little, maybe close up the ends of the box section spring packers, it'd make them stronger too. And you'd be surprised how may so called pro's do bash jobs.

Good obs smithy, I think its a shorty too, the diff is a rover as well as the spring hangers being inboard. The lwb has a sally diff and outboard hangers. So the ride height might be standard then, the springs are showing cause of the chassis bash. Personally I'd check the length of the rear...

Looks like someone with a bit of fab experience has done that doesnt look too bad, well rusty though innit. The rear looks like a series front bumper bashed to fit. Those spring hangers also look a lot longer, they might be fabbed as well. I have a rear xmember to replace on my s3 lwb, not...

The LWB chassis has substantially taller main chassis rails, the width and the layout is the same just taller.

My old set not having enough power and tired of having to bodge stuff I thought I'd blow the crimbo bonus on a new weld set. Sets over 200 amp seem to be 700 quid range to get one of any quality. Found this geyser on eblag who does a 250 amp for 325 notes, I went and had a look and was...

I nearly went and got an air hammer, but they use too many cfm's for a small comp.

Jack up the front of the vehicle, put into 1st with the engine stopped, turn one wheel and t'other should go the opposite direction, if it dunt then theres a suspect free wheel hub, failing that half shaft.

You want your lights and things to be reliable so only do the job if your confident with it, replacing the 'ole lot would be quicker but would cost more, make your own mind up. I wasnt suggesting pushbutton start, I was suggesting pushbutton pre heaters, I'm sure you know that diesels have...

If the whole loom has been butchered then a replacement might be better, unless your skilled in auto electrics, if its just the engine bits that have been snipped then you can reconnect them no probs, you just need either a pushbutton or another ignition switch and relay for the heater plugs...

If they are the size of my mrs's then you'd be thinking your having a near death experience or a nuke had gone off.

You can use a standard inline water tap to control water flow, or a radiator valve.

You could T the hot water in to both the original and another matrix, then T the outlets back together again, if you just loop them in series one will be hot and the other tepid. If you can find one nowadays classic mini heaters are kinda usefull, or bash one up with a matrix, I think you'd...

Well not quite the same, with the motorised tip though I spose you could use the tig weld set as the power supply. I only used the tig electrode as the only thing I had to hand that wouldnt get blown to bits.