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It's right beside the fuse box under the bonnet. It was disconnected when I bought the car, but noticed it the other day and decided to plug it together, but not noticed anything different yet. Anyone know what it is for?

I have noticed this same problem, you have to push the front panel in hard- mines the number 3 button which sorts it out for a few miles.... would love to know what is causing it...I did actually take it out to have quick look at the wiring, which looked, hmmm like confusing so i shook it a bit...

Did u only change the main belt? I just read u may have to change the aircon belt at the same time too? You don't have the part number do you?

I am thinking of changing the serpentine belt on the p38 dhse. Is it a nightmare? or something that can be done with having to dismantle half the car? BTW is there any other belts that need changing at the 106k mark?

There is a bleed nut on the FIP, the clear pipe runs into it- just crack it open a touch, the air will be forced out of the nut, while starting engine it will splutter for a few seconds but will start, make sure you tighten up the nut afterwards.

Same problem I had too. New driver pack and all sorted. I do get a drop in height over night, but I think the airbags are knackered and need replacing soon. Anyone know common places for airleaks in the system ?

Cameron Diaz

chevron diesel engine oil 25litre drum from costco, about 35 quid.

Your most welcome....

How old is your battery? Get this tested properly. I have read and been told they last a good 2-3 years before packing up. Even a slightly dodgy cell can really confuse the becm and suddenly throw up a host of faults.

Update: All done and dusted, actually no pictures required. I used the standard car jack, an old tree stump as an axle stand, disc screw came of with normal screwdriver, 2 whacks withe hammer and the disc fell off... Took no more than 90 mons to do both sides. I actually found this a very simple...

Been there- may not be sensor. Get cable and software and post the results. I also considered the height sensors, but my messages on the software were - Pressure signal Constantly high and vehicle has moved. I replaced the driver pack and now is running perfect.

So, I just had a quick look at the job I'm planning to do tomorrow... I took my breaker bar and a 13mm 12pt socket, and just to see if I could eek them. they do!, so quick squirt of WD40 and it should make those bolts easier in the morning. I did note the top caliper bolt on the driver side is...

Great advice... Do I need to extract any brake fluid? I think I have everything that need for this job minus an axle stand.

OK i think I will get a impact driver - which is a good make? Also what size g clamp do i need to push the piston back into the caliper? I have seen a piston CUBE- anyone had experience of using this?

I have had a look at this guide its good- but its for the fronts, I seem to find anything on the rears...or are they the same? also where is the handbrake adjustment? do they have pads?

I have some squeeling brakes at the rear- on closer inspection i can see a 5-8mm scoring on the outer edge of the disc which I think means metal to metal. Need to change discs and pads pronto! Discs and pads ordered, what other tools and tips do you recommend? I have read the disc retainer...

Your more than welcome! You can buy me a beer...!:D Curious to know accurately you followed it... I hope many others can benefit from my write up, I really want to do a few more tutorials, stuff like fixing heated seats, lock replacement, brakes and eas stuff.

Of to the breakers we go... are the speakers different if you have a hk system?

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/tank-fuel-pump-template-p38-109368.html Have a look at this. It's an alternative.