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Looks like a nice example, keep up the good work.

EGR valve ? Loads of info on here about blanking or removing it.

I think mine will look the same if I put my 235 70s back on. If you are keeping your alloys with standard offset then 285 70s or 265 75s should stay within the arches. The steel wheels I used sit out a little but can catch the arches. It also depends on which brand you choose as my 265 75...

Is the gearbox oil level ok? Did you check with the engine running, engine cold, run through all gears etc. Was the oil changed then the cooler was done? Also the filter in the gearbox sump?

I've got +1 springs on mine with 50mm spring spacers and have around 110mm between the arch and the tyre so yours is a bit higher. I replaced my BFG muds with the STTs and can't recommend them enough, they're easily as good off road and in my opinion are quieter with better grip on the road...

It's just for the EGR as the cruise pump is under the 2nd battery tray behind the nearside headlight so you could still use cruise in the future if you decide to fix it.

As said, cut the rubbers. Also trace the plastic vaccum pipes back and blank them off. One on the airbox, one on the bulkhead, can't remember the last one but I think there are 3. I just used small self tappers to blank them.

I bet that feels like a major victory!! Glad you got it sorted.

This was the only way I could get enough pressure on the spanner to get mine off. I had to file the nut to get the spanner on as the nut had been hacked previously. I needed someone to hold the adjustable spanner against the tensioner while I pushed like hell. I'd kept the old serpentine...

...or just to satisfy a light fetish! :D

I have to admit that when I saw the price i thought "what's the catch"? That loom on it's own would cost twice as much from LR. Looking forward to seeing them fitted.

Assuming that the new relay is working then it can only be a break in either the 'trigger' wire from the ignition or the earth to coil in the relay. Might still be worth testing the operation of the relay though.

I think on my EDC it's just the cruise control that is cable operated. Mine is an import so could be different though.

Are you getting 12v to glow plugs when you turn the ignition on? If you are getting 12v then you just need new plugs. Pull one of the middle 2 as they are the most accessible and connect it directly to the battery for 5 seconds to test it. Should be glowing red hot so hold it using pliers...

When I did mine none of the joints stood out as dry joints but i just touched the soldering iron on any that didn't look quite as shiny as the rest. Been OK for over a year now.

I did exactly what your LR man said and ran like that for a couple of years. I only stripped mine out completely when I had the manifold off for a different reason. The only real difference in that it looks neater when removed, especially as mine is a Jap import so had a water cooled EGR valve.

The injector nearest the bulkhead will have an electrical connector if it's EDC.

The swivel that has been replaced is probably teflon coated, hence the darker colour, not sure if you can still get new chrome ones.

Sounds like the 'P' gasket behind the water pump housing. Just done mine, not too bad to do. I was advised that the metal gaskets are best but at it happens that's the only type my motor factors stocked anyway.

I've just swapped to CREE LED reverse lights and I thought I'd bought the CANBUS ones to test with the indicators but they didn't work when I put them in :mad:. Checking ebay showed I'd bought non CANBUS ones :crazy: but they're OK as reverse lights. I've got a pack of 470 Ohm resistors so...