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As title, what size are these threads? Approx 15mm nut but feels baggy, maybe imperial 9/16 They're close to M10, M10 starts to go on but feels odd. But the threads are gnarled and rusty. I don't want to send a die down and knacker them. Anyone know the correct size?

Mine too.

EGRs are a ****e invention, bin the thing.

Well the brake spins quite freely inside (one way, locks up other way), just wanted to do a good job of removing all the rust and crap.

Anyone any other thoughts before I start hacking?

It does more than just shuts it off, it does the entire job of the governor on a proper pump. The stop solenoid just makes one click. No idea about your injectors sorry, but I have found independent diesels in halifax quite good, worth a chat to.

Or it will be the CTA12000 when I've finished getting the mud out of it. Any other cheapo winch owners know how to get the brake assembly and hex drive shaft out of the middle of the drum?

Mines just the chinese cta12000 winch. It fits in the tray currently and I wouldn't be changing that space, just have to be careful I don't encroach into it in front-to-back direction Probably shooting myself in the foot if I ever want to upgrade the winch, but cross that bridge when I come to...

Looks less bodgy than mine :)

Hows about this then. I'm coming to the conclusion that method of bumper mounting isn't very good, and is more for ease than strength, and even if I bush the chassis, and the bumper I will have to jig bore the bushes in place to take the play out. Simply not enough friction to stop that joint...

Can you get a clamp meter over the glow plug wires and check they are drawing power.

On the delphi lift pumps there is a gauze in the top that can get clogged wi ****.

Eyup. When I first had the problem I thought it was a plugged fuel filter, it was missing and stumbling at part throttle, (but oddly, ticking over perfectly.) So I pulled over and changed it. Ran fine for a short distance then carried on faulting. Tank sender 6 month old, checked inside tank...

Hiya mate, great thread :) I would give that a flick on the surface grinder instead of lapping myself, you might as well be sure it is flat since it is a critical bit and it is a 2 minute job.

cleaned the TPS connector a bit (it looked perfect but anyway)... took it for a blast. behaved fine. not claiming victory just yet as suspect heat soak into the pump or even TPS may play a part... as it was cool at 11pm but was hot yesterday afternoon

Do both? You can still bend HD rods, or break other bits if you hit something hard. On the other hand, steering guards can get stuck on things and act like a plough if you need to get out of deep snot backwards

Does anyone know of someone anywhere near Keighley with lynx/testbook type diagnostics who could check sensor readings etc?

Eyup. Feels like it's clogged the filter occasionally. Revs up misses and stumbles then revs up like it means business. No air visible in pipes. Changed filter and it was fine for 5 miles then missing again. Tank sender 6 month old, checked inside tank no evidence of muck or water. No...

It would be possible to put two fair sized gussets at the front of the chassis legs. I did like green hornets (I think) winch mounting with a sodding great plate on the front of the chassis legs!

Half the problem is the leverage the bumper has over the mountings, it must be a 500mm moment on there, all swinging on 3 bolts no more tham 50mm apart. I think it's the bearmach winch bumper.