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Which one? Replacing shaft:jack up as much as possible from one side, remove bottom and side engine cover, remove wheel, Undo center hub nut (use air impact wrench as its tight), undo the 2 suspention bottom bolts, pull the hub out (no need to remove bottom ball joint), lever the inner cv away...

Ask the mechanic to check the IRD as he still has to take it out to remove the gearbox. He can inspect the oil and gears inside. But again most probbably not gonna find anything wrong with it.

Do you have any service history? That would defenetly help. Gearbox with clutch and hydrolics should sort the reverse gear issue. and possibly the vibration if not comming from drive shafts so that's one so that's possibly one solution. For lack of power, I'd try the cheapest 1st options 1st...

If you have Facebook you can join Freelander Owners Club. Great group for freelander owners. Have learned a lof from them. Very helpful. And there are around 7000 members

As for lack of power under load: Also check turbo hoses for any splits and especially the one at the front as it tends to rub against the manifold mount. I had a pin hole there and was leaking air. Don't forget the 90degree hose above the turbo at the back of the engine. ALSO Check the...

Yep as @GrumpyGel said. I learned from the problems I had with my FL. Im not a mechanic but what I know I learnt from asking on forums. Check CVs as previously mentioned. And as for reverse gear its probbably not related but you can do a quick search on the forum for similar issues others...

But should not make the gear stick vibrate.

VcU is heavy and if damper is damaged or mounts are worn then it will still move around when driven as it is turning with the rear diff. Bes would be to remove the complete prop and vcu. Just 4bolts for the mounts and another 4 at the rear diff.

Sorry didn't read you took the prop off but did good..did you take the vcu out also or just one of the shafts?

Also take it for a drive and put your hand on the handbrake if you can feel the vibration or knocking trough it can be the VCU mounts.

Yes could feel it in my gear shift. Gear shift is linked to the gearbox thats mounted to the engine. Any movement on that will come from there. Vibration in steering is usually comming from steering rack, suspention, tyres etc.

Don't use poly bushes for the engine steady links. They are stiffer than rubber ones and will transfer a lot of vibration to the cabin. Did mine and it's not nice. Would use them on suspention and anywhere else though.

Are front drive ahafts origional or aftermarket. Check if the inner CV if its round. If round its aftermarket and will cause vibration if 3 sided its GKN and should be fine. Then check inner cv boot for any wear or splatter of grease. My source of vibration was aftermarket driveshaft which...

check this out: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/cv-replacement-new-vibration-resolved.308638/

make sure the cv joint used is not aftermarket esp. inner CV. they are known to produce vibration due to lack or articulation.

that makes sense.

That should solve it. But next time check each by testing as its more expensive replacing everything when some might not be the issue. Still hope it cures it.

check check this out:

that is a common issue. its either condensation or pannel joints. take off the floor trim, get a water hose and spray from under the car towards the underside of the car and look for any leaks. check if water gets trough from between the pannel where the welding is and seal with sealer or similar.

yep. The origional cloth trim was just horrible after 16 years and comming off so this was the cheapest and most effective fix.