Freelander vibrating a gear stick knocking

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Hi everyone, Im new to this thought id try you guys with my problems before I spend a fortune trying to solve them ,

I have an 04 Freelander 2.0 TD4 and i have a few problems with her
1. While under throttle theres a knocking coming from the gear stick and underneath but when i lift the throttle she is fine but holds her self back quite alot and when hill climbing it gets a lot worse sounds like somethings gonna snap , i thought it was connected to the vcu so i removed the front prop shaft leaving the vcu and rear shaft still attached with no change in driving , it comes and goes though i hadnt drive her in a week and it took a good days driving for the problem to reoccur,

2. No reverse , its very hard to get into reverse with lots of grinding but once i get it in its fine doesnt pop out again and the clutch doesnt depress fully

My plan was to change the gearbox and transfer box but before i do so id like your opinions

Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in adavance

GrumpyGel · Mar 12, 2017

There are plenty with more experience than me but if it seems like its holding back, then I wonder if the brakes are binding? Maybe after a run where its been holding back, see if there's a wheel that feels hot. Not sure how it would make the car feel as though it being held back - but you could test the inner CV joins, make sure there's not play on them, also where the driveshaft locks into the IRD, make sure there's no movement on the driveshaft.

If the clutch isn't depressing fully, is there an issue with the peddle linkage or master - I'm not sure how you check. Not even sure how you bleed a TD4 clutch because the slave is inside the bell housing.

I wouldn't write the gearbox and IRD off without knowing of actual faults. You could change the oil in them. See what the old oil comes out like. If it comes out nice and black then there shouldn't be to much wear in them. When my IRD was fubared the oil came out very grey/metalicy with all the bearings ground to a pulp and mixed in with it! Unless there is obvious wear, there's not a lot can go wrong in an IRD. There are bits in a gearbox that could break I suppose, but presumably you'd have continuous problems not intermittent.

Good luck!

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Thanks for your reply ,

The shaft that connects to the ird has been removed as i was afraid that the vcu was the problem and that if it was the vcu or drive train putting stress on the transmission then id best remove it but its no better, would it be the ird making the vibration in the gearstick and underneath or is that more likely the gearbox, i have a leaking back diff but with the front prop shaft removed i thought that would stop that if the vcu was the problem, see if i have removed the front shaft but left a faulty vcu and rear shaft still connected to my back end would that still give me issues

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

Are front drive ahafts origional or aftermarket. Check if the inner CV if its round. If round its aftermarket and will cause vibration if 3 sided its GKN and should be fine. Then check inner cv boot for any wear or splatter of grease.

My source of vibration was aftermarket driveshaft which have a divverent tripod bearing and allows less articulation of tje cv.

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Was your vibration up through your stick you can clearly see and feel my gearstick knocking back and forth but like i said its intermittened i left the car parked for a week and it took a good days driving for my problem to reoccur

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

Ruairi said:
Was your vibration up through your stick you can clearly see and feel my gearstick knocking back and forth but like i said its intermittened i left the car parked for a week and it took a good days driving for my problem to reoccur

Yes could feel it in my gear shift.

Gear shift is linked to the gearbox thats mounted to the engine. Any movement on that will come from there.
Vibration in steering is usually comming from steering rack, suspention, tyres etc.

GrumpyGel · Mar 12, 2017

Ruairi said:
Thanks for your reply ,

The shaft that connects to the ird has been removed as i was afraid that the vcu was the problem and that if it was the vcu or drive train putting stress on the transmission then id best remove it but its no better, would it be the ird making the vibration in the gearstick and underneath or is that more likely the gearbox, i have a leaking back diff but with the front prop shaft removed i thought that would stop that if the vcu was the problem, see if i have removed the front shaft but left a faulty vcu and rear shaft still connected to my back end would that still give me issues

As Charlot says, I was referring to the drive shaft connecting the IRD to the RHF wheel. You've remove the prop shaft - which was a good first move.

As you've disconnected the VCU from the IRD, there will be much reduced stress going through the rear diff. If there were (serious) problems with it, I'm sure you would have noticed a difference.

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

Also take it for a drive and put your hand on the handbrake if you can feel the vibration or knocking trough it can be the VCU mounts.

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

Sorry didn't read you took the prop off but did good..did you take the vcu out also or just one of the shafts?

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Ok guys sorry i picked you up wring, no very mechanical myself so im just trying to gather as much information as possible , so you guys dont reckon its my ird causing the knocking, i have located a 2nd hand gearbox hoping that will address the problem with reverse and il stick a clutch in at the same time my reason for making sure its not my transfer box/ IRD is obviously it would be best to stick it in now at the same time if that was the problem

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Charlot, i took only the front prop off only but what im not sure of is with my vcu and rear shaft still connected to my rear end will i still get problems even though its not being driven from the front

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

VcU is heavy and if damper is damaged or mounts are worn then it will still move around when driven as it is turning with the rear diff. Bes would be to remove the complete prop and vcu. Just 4bolts for the mounts and another 4 at the rear diff.

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

But should not make the gear stick vibrate.

GrumpyGel · Mar 12, 2017

Ruairi said:
Ok guys sorry i picked you up wring, no very mechanical myself so im just trying to gather as much information as possible , so you guys dont reckon its my ird causing the knocking, i have located a 2nd hand gearbox hoping that will address the problem with reverse and il stick a clutch in at the same time my reason for making sure its not my transfer box/ IRD is obviously it would be best to stick it in now at the same time if that was the problem

Don't apologise for lack of knowledge - I only know what I know from problems I've been through and reading problems and fixes on here - mainly the latter as my Freelander's been fantastically reliable! Your efforts to fix the problems are admirable

If you are going to the trouble of stripping it all down - it might be an idea to change the oil in the IRD - if it comes out grey it would be prudent to swap it out then rather than having to come back to it. If the CV is knackered, it can easily destroy the bearing inside the IRD that supports it. However - be careful if you get a replacement because they are very likely to be in a worse condition that yours! Unless you get a recon from a reputable supplier (eg Bells, who are also good for VCUs if you need one).

I'm still not convinced you have a problem with the gearbox. I'd wait for some more advice. I see there's another thread just started with the Getrag TD4 gearbox where someone can get reverse but none of the forward gears! Hopefully you have some good ideas here that will resolve your vibration. If you don't get any input about the gearbox after a day or so, I'd be tempted to put a new thread up just for that - in case its been missed by others with the various comments about the vibration.

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Thanks again, I want to fix the freelander as its a lovely driving vehicle when its behaving itself however i dont want to "fix" things that dont need fixed, Yeah i thought that the gear stick wouldnt carry vibration through from the back end now that the props away, also i forgot to mention when under severe strain i.e hill climbing the freelander will cut out power as if she slipped and the engine management light will come on but she goes again straight away and the light goes out dont know if its linked or not, ive had several different mechanics tell me that the reverse problem is in the box but im not sure either because once shes in gear shes totally fine its just finding it and the linkage is fine i had any imperfections in the linkage straightened out to no avail

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

Yep as @GrumpyGel said. I learned from the problems I had with my FL. Im not a mechanic but what I know I learnt from asking on forums.

Check CVs as previously mentioned. And as for reverse gear its probbably not related but you can do a quick search on the forum for similar issues others had and start investigating from there.

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

As for lack of power under load:
Also check turbo hoses for any splits and especially the one at the front as it tends to rub against the manifold mount. I had a pin hole there and was leaking air. Don't forget the 90degree hose above the turbo at the back of the engine.

ALSO Check the condition of vacum pipes. Mine did similar when my pipes where very worn. They disintegrated when touched. Replaced them and turbo solenoid. But was a different issue.

Charlot · Mar 12, 2017

If you have Facebook you can join Freelander Owners Club. Great group for freelander owners. Have learned a lof from them. Very helpful. And there are around 7000 members

Ruairi · Mar 12, 2017

Ivs tried searching for reverse gear problems but its always automatics on the forum with reverse gear issues,
The mechanic i have got to do my work is a really good one and has a waiting list to get him to do the work so when my turn comes around i need to know what he has to do and have the parts to do it with , im right in think if i change the gearbox and clutch and hydraulic clutch kit regardless of the reverse gear cause it will fix it, and as for the transfer box il leave it as it is and get him to take a look at the cvs does that sound like a good plan or not

GrumpyGel · Mar 12, 2017

Ruairi said:
Thanks again, I want to fix the freelander as its a lovely driving vehicle when its behaving itself however i dont want to "fix" things that dont need fixed, Yeah i thought that the gear stick wouldnt carry vibration through from the back end now that the props away, also i forgot to mention when under severe strain i.e hill climbing the freelander will cut out power as if she slipped and the engine management light will come on but she goes again straight away and the light goes out dont know if its linked or not, ive had several different mechanics tell me that the reverse problem is in the box but im not sure either because once shes in gear shes totally fine its just finding it and the linkage is fine i had any imperfections in the linkage straightened out to no avail

You should check the hoses as suggested - but I recon that sounds like a fueling problem. I'd suspect the lift pump (in the rear wheel arch) and/or the filter (next to it), possibly also the O rings in the regulator part of the main fuel pump on engine. These, like the hose issues, are all known failure points on the TD4 giving those sorts of issues. If the MIL light has come on - there should be a code telling you why. With an 04 car - you might get away with a cheap £10 bluetooth ODBII dongle and an app on your phone to read it. Otherwise a LR specific reader or, like I do, pop down to a LR specialist who will definitely have the diagnostic gear to read the codes.

Freelander vibrating a gear stick knocking

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