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as yours is a 2001 , you wont get a scanner to read anything, if you do let me know

welcome ? (noname )you sound like you will fit right in here,if you can get over the initial teasing, we have a lot of helpful owners on here, and also a few others, you make your mind up where you want to fit in

try giving the fuel pump a tap,

just a thought, have you checked the collision immobilizer- red button next to the bulk head behind the battery, you may have knocked it?

sounds like fuel issue, the turbo issue is just a lack of power and struggles to get over 70, had this last week check the wiring to the fuel rail pressure sensor,and change the fuel filter

welding is fine if you have plenty of metal to weld too, think my tail door is very thin, and the glue was quick and easy and , to be fair its the only piece of body work that has rotted so far, apart from the scraficial fuel tank shield :D

yep i have the same problem, my fix was to make up a small aluminium plate(thin guage)to cover the area,formed it into shape and sparayed it, then glued it into position, you wouldnt notice a rapair had been done, i guess if i remove the door card i will uncover more rust areas, but then its a...

dont forget to order the input shaft oil seal, usual suspect if its started slipping, and check for oil leaks ,

if i remember the rear side panels just prise off, a couple of the fixing points broke but you can use silicone to re-secure, certainly cant tell that they have been off

mine leaked from the top, where the roof- outside rear trim was secured, water was finding its way through the rusted screw holes, remove trim and the rusted galvanised bracket and secure black trim with silicone sealant , no leaks

you need to remove the gearbox to be able to replace the slave, think you must have meant the master ,

think you might have jumped into removing the box to quickly, master cylinders fail over a period of time and sometimes bleeding can get the cluthc working ok again for a short time , what are you going to do now ?

just back from test run, and all back to normal, reving over 3000 rmp and goes over 70mph easily, fuel pump was renewed a few months ago,everything else that has been suggested has been checked, although it was a very severe storm and very winds the problem continued into the next day, hence...

nodge68 good point about testing, running it light will only prove that it spins freely, in the past i have tested the flow rates of the pre pumps by taking the pipe off before it goes to the filter and into a bucket, again you have to be careful, also note there is a pressure switch on the...

2001 td4, with synergy 1, struggling to get over 70mph the other day weather had been a torrential rain storm,:( engine running well but did not want to go above 70, i have removed the turbo solenoid and pulled it apart, all seemed ok, and now refitted it , going for a test run soon, will...

if you remove the pump , you will be able to give it a good clean there is a mesh filter , make sure it is clean , they usually wear on the motor commutator, not the pump itself,, if you rig up 12v you will be able to test to see if it spins ok, inspect the commutator for excessive wear

good ROUND tyres make a big difference to a smooth running motor, i noticed this last year , had a drumming noise , thought it was wheel bearings, but put 4 new tyres on and its now driving like it was new, also swap the rears over every service to even out the cross wear(service bulletin)

pierburg or bosch, i believe are both oem parts,

just a though, have you checked your rear subframe mountings, chassis cracking is quite common

yes i had a prob with a ron box,, it was the connecting plugs, poor connections, so cut off the plugs and used chock block , problem solved