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2.6 litre petrol engine. Terrible reputation. Eats head gaskets. Maybe cyclinders too close togther. The trusty 2.25 litre engine is simple. I've just got one for £50 to unload PM today. c/w carb and starter motor. Nothing wrong with it. Chap just wanted a diesel instead.

Safari body will fit straight on. Chassis is same. BUT, the military style fuel tanks under the seatbox won't. They will need a chunk cutting out to fit OR remove the tanks and fit a safari tank between the chassis longitudinals further back.

Carbuerettor Exchange link FYI. Carburetter Exchange

I have just bought a series 2a with a webber on it. I certinly has a smaller venturi - not quite big enough IMHO. I've heard this from elsewhere too. The smaller venturi has a throttling effect and causes the engine to lack power over a certain rev range. That said, and having taken the thing...

Thanks chaps. Its not the cable. Its fine as the mph pointer is giving a reading. I have had a problem with the cable in the past and the current unit is fairly new. It is odd that the mileage display stopped at such a point. I'm a bit annoyed as I paid £80 for this unit from Britpart not...

odemeter on my series 3 stopped working today. Just as it tried to turn from 9999 to 10000 it stopped counting. The unit was one I bought new a couple of years ago to replace the original unit which broke - the speedo stopped working. Any ideas? Can it be repaired?

my Series 3 had a bad misfire and I went through much similar pain. In the end, it was a worn carb. Invest in a refurbished carb - I had mine professionally done - like a new engine when done.

Forgot to mention that 12V/24V for a switch doesn't matter for this part.

Sorry for late reply. Its a LUCAS part. If you remove it and take it to a LUCAS dealer (or PARTCO) they will sell you a new one. Not expensive and easy to fit.

About to take lid off box today. Thanks for help. Will post results.

in july 1980 Land Rover went metric for brake pipe threads. Do take extra care on this as the two threads are very similar and you can easily get them mixed up. I don't have to explain what might happen if a nipple pops out.

All I need to do some welding on my series 3 (MOT next month) and I have had a real time of it with an Oxford Welder which only provides current on certain settings and now not at all. I have also fried my multi-tester on the damn thing trying to measure resitance. Ideally, I'd like to try...

The brake light switch is there to enable you to test the lamp in the switch is healthy. The lamp is there to illuminate when the shuttle valve in the dual line brake system moves for any reason - such as loss of brake fluid. My switch broke ages ago when ii tried to change the bulb in it...

The Haynes Manual says you can undo gearbox and move it bakc with just floor and tunnel removed. The removable support on military S111 saved me when I took the 'box out.

How much were you wanting for it?

90 Amp very rare to find spares these days. last one cost me more than £100

Clutch or just master or slave cylinders? The cylinders are easily replaced. Moving gearbox to clutch is a real drag. Warning light - bound to be charge light. Normally comes on dim at low revs, goes off at high revs.

I don't like chequer plate. My defender has chequer plate on wing tops and sills and little bits on the bumper. It came like that. It is poseurish. It does turn heads - but so does the Series 3 for different reasons and it has no chequer. You can get new sills off a broken up vehicle cheap...

Follow link to wiring diagrams from military handbook. You do need the rotaty switch to be in the right place for all head, side and tail lights and indicateors to work. I have had a problem with the indicators not working from time to to time - although not recently. Put it down to sticky...

My 24V 109 has a lucas distributor with no vacuum advance. I get about 19 mpg which I think is quite good with engine driven fan and 24V generator. So, yours shoudl still run but you do need to blank of conenction to carb to stop air leaking in.