Search results

when you changed the crankcase filter did you disturb any of the injector electrical connectors or any of the pipework, just changing the filter would have no bearing on the running of the engine as you have experienced it really only stops excessive crankcase pressure build up

it would be a very good idea to change the crankcase breather filter if it is still fitted, a lot now have been replaced by the cyclone type which does not have a filter,also there is a filter on the turbo vacuum exhaust line, the one hanging on a small pipe at the back of the engine and looks...

when I did mine many years ago I used a Sealey brake pipe flaring tool and cupro nickle pipe, was easy enough to do, put some anti seize paste on the fittings but keep it out of the pipework, you will need to know whether the set up is metric or imperial if you are going to change the cap nuts

the Bosch agent in Colchester recon that 100k is about it for BMW M47 injectors and they do a Bosch recon set for around £650, I had a set for my td4 a couple of years ago because it had the same problem as yours and the problem was solved

should be easy enough but if you are going to change the auxilliary drive belt you will need a special tool to release the spring loaded tensioner. One of the main jobs is to replace the crankcase breather filter, you may find the screws holding the cover plate down are difficult to remove as...

not sure what gearbox you have but my old 110 has an LT77S and that uses dextron 3 auto transmission fluid, may be worth checking that your gearbox my be the same

that is the anti roll bar link and a well known failure point, best to replace with genuine

that is the anti roll bar link, it is a well known failure point easy to replace but use a quality make or genuine

you will need a special tool to hold the pulley, fits over the castellations, and a good socket around 30mm or so and a long breaker bar and a tame gorilla to heave on it as the crank nut is extremely tight,I was unable to move mine and gave up in the end,if you can get the nut off then the...

looks like the vacuum pipes could do with replacing as the operation of the vacuum circuit is very important to the satisfactory running of the engine, I replaced mine with silicon pipe which should not wear through like the cloth braided originals

you can get an irritating rattle from the rear door latch, apparently a couple of small springs rust away, my FL1 has this problem and i need to get round to doing the job although I have got used to the rattle and do not really notice it now it will feel strange when it no longer rattles !!!

changed both my td4's to vortex breather and done some 70000 miles with no trouble.The landrover has a 200tdi motor and this has a similar setup for crankcase breathing which works well

seems a very low mpg for a td4, I keep a constant check on mine and it averages around 44 mpg during the year, I do not push the car hard. I thought the makers mpg figures were around 40mpg so it looks as though you have a problem. Does it smoke, black exhaust would indicate excessive fueling...

had an LT230 and LT77S from them 90000 miles ago and no problems, very happy with their work

sounds like your vehicle has a relatively hard life, are these clutch parts of good quality i.e. OEM , Borg and Beck etc prices seem low. My 110 is only used on the road but so far has done 96000 miles on the same clutch with no problems

my last FL1 td4 was on 188,000 with the original turbo when I sold it and the turbo had no problems,if a good quality oil is used with regular changes (would recommend 6000mile intervals not 12000 as LR suggest) and there is no blue tinge to the exhaust then leave it be

I fitted polybush parts to the front radius arms on my 1983 110 and was not impressed by the inferior handling afterwards the steering was definitely worse than with genuine rubber parts ,so pulled the whole lot out and fitted genuine parts and restored the excellent handling that the 110 has...

my 2006 FL1 rad started leaking a little while ago and my local independant got me a Nissan rad,nothing to do with Jappanese cars! but made in Denmark and very good quality

put a Marsland galvanised chassis on my 110 some 18 years ago and it has been fine and was no trouble to fit

My Adwest 3 bolt steering box had been leaking a little for some time so with the MOT coming up I decided to replace it with a new one which had a 4 bolt pattern, this obviously cured the leak but also made the steering so much better , I had not realised how much wear had taken place in the old...