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Yes, Mid Cornwall.

HSE or HSE LUX is the top spec, but they're always overpriced for a couple of extra comforts. As Freddie said, the SE is generally the best spec for the money, as it has everything the HSE has, but misses on fully leather seats (unless optioned) memory mirrors, and the Logic 7 sound system, but...

It's been known for aftermarket CV joints to stiffen under acceleration, which can cause a judder.

What make struts did you use?

The Haldex is more fussy than the VCU, and the rear diff can be fragile, but both can be maintained and fixed if needed. The engine is a PSA unit, found in various Fords, Jaguar and many PSA vehicles, and it's known for doing high mileages when properly maintained, 250k miles and more isn't...

Apparently the fuel cap solenoid can draw too much current, which will blow the fuse.

The Freelander 2 adjuster is through the front of the bell, so the wheel needs removing to adjust the shoes. However nobody ever strips, cleans, lubricates, and reassembles the parking brake every year, so they rust up.

Spray some silicone lube on the pedal bushings, which have probably gone sticky.

It's not a direct replacement, but it can be done. The crank isn't the problem, it's the bearings that collapse due to oil film strength reduction because the oil is contaminated with diesel fuel.

So why are you getting a working clutch and shocks replaced? Have you been told it needs them? If so, it sounds like someone is after work, in which case go elsewhere.

If the starter is clicking, then the ECM is probably sending the start signal to the start relay. It's not uncommon for the starter solenoid contactors to burn out, there's even a solenoid repair kit available to solve that issue for about £20.

It's probably all corroded up inside, that's the normal problem. If it's done more than 100k, it's probably worth replacing everything, including the rotors and pads.

The log displayed on the infotainment screen is just showing the infotainment system operating cycles. There's no OBD2 connection in the infotainment system, so it can't display anything engine related, just infotainment data. Have you put an OBD2 reader on it to see if any error codes come up...

As above. You've got to remove the strut to access the top mount. Technically it's possible, but as the strut is secured to hub assembly by just 2 bolts, it's not worth messing about trying to get enough space with the strut in place.

Why does it need shocks? Generally LR shocks are good for 120k. EGR is an easy DIY item, although space is limited. Clutch is an experienced DIY item. Personally I'd cut losses. A GS isn't particularly desirable, and less so being a manual box model. Both these things will limit its value to...

An air path calibration is done with suitable diagnostic equipment. JLR SDD is LR's software, which is available cloned from China, with a Mongoose interface cable. I believe Snap-on diagnostic tools can also carry out an air path calibration. If new injectors have been fitted, those need to...

If any part of the air intake system is changed, including sensors and valves, then an air path calibration MUST be carried out. Not doing so will mean the ECM doesn't have a datum point to start monitoring the air going through the system. There is a small variation in all sensors, which is the...

Have you done an air path calibration? The ECM calculates the MAF values during the calibration. Not doing a calibration will give MAF read variations, which the calibration irons out.

It's most likely the plug at fault. The pins in the plug loose tension, leading to bad connections and potential sensor failure. I changed the plug on mine, which stopped the sensors from failing. I bought 2 plugs (the shipping was more than 2 plugs), and a new Febi (OE) sensor, which cured the...

Not that will integrate with the vehicle. The sensors are also a unique Ford size, so aftermarket universal type sensors don't fit the bumper. Just get a replacement harness, and save a lot of messing about.