Search results

From memory, the turbo does come on full boost at around 1500 RPM, but below boost there is enough power to get the vehicle moving. Check for splits in the boost hoses, especially the short one at the throttle body. Don’t forgot that a Freelander 2 is a couple of hundred kilograms heavier...

What parts did you fit? Cam position sensor is a common fault, and prevents the engine from starting, but not running once started. The TPS needs setting up with Land Rover T4 IIRC. Shifting out of park is likely to be related to the interlock, but how that works depends on what market the...

A fluid change is the first thing to do as suggested, is to do a reservoir and fluid change, using the correct green central hydraulic fluid. The rack isn't that bad, and if looked after can do huge miles. There were some issues with early racks having welding debris in them, which would break...

You're welcome. Here's some more. The FL1 isn't too bad off road, but doesn't have low range, which is a pain sometimes. The automatic version is best, so either that means getting a KV6, or TD4.

The orange hose if the turbo outlet boost hoses, so it A: shouldn't leak, and B: shouldn't have coolant in it. There are several coolant hoses above it, connected to the EGR cooler, so that's where to look.

Either repair the engine, or replace it with an identical unit. Anything else will be much more work. It is theoretically possible to install a KV6, but it's not happy in the tight confines of the engine bay, a suffers head gasket failure as a result. Also the gearbox would need to be swapped...

Yes, same on the FL2. Mine, well yours, only generated a code when it actually stopped the engine, but not when it was misbehaving before hand.

It's 4 years overdue a gearbox fluid change. LR specify 150k miles, or 10 years, which ever comes first. Both should be halved really, as 150k and 10 years is just ridiculous. In my experience, not doing fluid changes on time is much worse than doing them more often than specification. Have the...

Sounds like there is a lack of compression under load. Did you make sure the injector seats were cleaned thoroughly, and new copper sealing washers were fitted? If an injector doesn't seal tight, the compression is lost the moment the cylinder fires, which then just blows the remaining unburnt...

A Freelander 2 wouldn't function correctly with a 60Ah battery, the factory specification is for an 85Ah battery, with a CCA performance of 800 A or more. The starter is rated at 2.2kW, so needs a beefy battery to crank the engine over at an acceptable speed.

The factory LR battery was LR branded, so wouldn't as a rule have Bosch labels. The Bosch S5 wasn't in production in 2008, so it's not original, and the date code confirms it's a replacement, 1108 means 2011, week 08. So the battery is 14 years old, and would be well overdue replacement.

A lot of places recommend an 096 battery, but that's only relevant if the genuine LR battery is being fitted. The LR 096 was more powerful than the standard 096 size listed by battery manufacturers. For aftermarket batteries, a 110 is closer to the original LR battery in specification, so that's...

How old is the battery? Is it the correct type? How was it tested? If the battery is more than 3 years old, replace it with the correct type before moving on to more in depth investigations. If the battery is less than 3 years but isn't the correct type, replace it. These vehicles have a very...

That's the intake filter, it's there to keep debris out of the vacuum system. If the hissing continues while the brake pedal is pressed, then the diaphragm in the booster has split.

The OP never came back. It depends on what lights the vehicle has, as to where you make your connections. If it's the later lights as the OP has, then the connections above are correct.

If the pedal isn't dropping when the engine is started, it means that either the vacuum pump isn't supplying vacuum, or there's a vacuum leak, or the booster itself has a leak.

Unfortunately the foam fill between the fabric and hardboard disintegrates at about 15 years of age, allowing the fabric to flop down. The only cure is to re-trim the hardboard with new headlining material.

It's normally a fuse, but I can't remember which one, other than It's behind the glove box. If the fuse keeps falling, it's normally the fuel flap solenoid that has failed. I was in Horsham weekend before last.

There's little point in replacing just the rear bushes, as the arm will be rusty, the ball joint will be worn, and the front bush will also be worn. You'll have to have a suspension alignment done for a rear bush, or a complete wishbone, so it makes sense to simply replace the whole assembly...

If it had an air lock, then the coolant could have filled the void, which would drop the level in the tank. Head gasket failure on the TD4 is rare, but not impossible if it's been overheated.