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Hi Gtsman, I replaced both my rear brake pipes last night. Took me about 4 hours in total. That was working underneath car. I already have a flaring tool so cost me less than £20 for copper pipe & unions. Hardest bit was feeding the new pipe through for the off side one - its pretty long and...

The squeal got worse such that it would happen when revving up whilst stationery. This gave me a chance to trace the squeal. It was coming from the flange joint between manifold and exhaust. Tightened two of the three nuts a little and squeal has gone away. I've never had a squeal like that from...

Tried it again whilst cold and was able to replace that which had ****ed out when warm. It's now got right level. Thanks guys.

The oil was warm when I Checked it so maybe that is the problem. I will recheck while it is cold. It should now need topping up!

Hi JT that's what I did and I was on a flat area but the oil ****ed out. I dont understand how it's possible.

No, it's an auto but there is no dipstick on mine?

2001 P38 4.0 Automatic Checked transmission fluid level to see if OK. With vehicle on flat I removed the filler plug from near top of sump. Oil gushed out as if being pumped.. Rave says fill till drips out of filler hole but it was above this level. How is this possible to be above filler...

How many owners from new. Are u a dealer or the owner?

It is hard to locate the sound as I can't make it happen when stationery. Tried to simulate by applying brake and accelerator whilst in D but can not make it squeal. It only happens with forward motion... This makes me wonder if it is not the box? Any thoughts? Steve.

The torque converter was refurbed at same time as gearbox so not good?

Hi, It starts at about 1700rpm or about 25mph when accelerating and gets worse as the revs build up. As soon as I take foot of accelerator it stops, ie only when under strain... Does it in all forward gears but not in reverse. Cheers, Steve.

RR p38 4.0 auto Today a nasty squeal started when applying moderate acceleration and beyond. Doesn't happen when revving up whilst stationery. Don't think it's from engine bay. When the auto box shifts up the squeal sounds faster and a pitch higher. Can't really locate where it is...

Thanks Willos, do you know if it is possible to change the seal without a "special removal tool" and without removing the case?

I know but there is no need for oil leaks. I have a 1969 series and that drips absolutely nothing now. New seals both ends of crank, sump n timing case gaskets cured it...but that was simple to do.

I have an irritating oil drip. Its not especially bad but I hate the tell-tale patch on the garage floor. Its a P38 2001 4.0 petrol - the Thor variant. Whilst there is signs of oil right under the bottom back to front of gearbox I think it is coming from front of engine and blowing back...

Removed the exhaust section - bloody hell the nuts were tight including cross member. Managed to knock out bits of old sensor and run a tap through... Cleaned out quite nicely so didn't have to weld in new boss. Fitted new sensors and put it back together, cleared faults etc. Took it for a run...

Thanks, They don't seem bad for price @ £65

Hi, Been through the NGK/NTK online catalogue & they don't have an option for models after 12/98. Mine is a 2001 model! Nothing straight forward...

Thanks eightinavee. That's really good advice. The boss in the link looks deeper than I expected. Cheers.

Checked for air leaks first. Also getting permanent fault code. Any suggestions on best place to buy O2 sensors appreciated. Also size of O2 thread would help so I can prep...