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Hmmm...wonder what your Matron is like. Mine's Chloris Leachman out of Mel Brookes High Anxiety:eek::eek: Anyway, three days in P38 Rehab will have you fixed up in no time - hope there isn't a waiting list - some members on here have their own parking spaces out front.:(

Quite - very cleverly worded - basically it's a Classic that went through SV shops for some reason.

I think every reasonably sized town has a specialist who'll make up hydraulic hoses and fittings - I know we have and they're spot on - quick turnaround and sensible money - just take in whats left of the bits that have failed.

It's what else in the engine/transmission and driveline that has been possibly designed to meet the criteria of having a DMF. So it's safest to keep as is.

My own opinion for what it's worth would be to keep the vehicle as designed and built to be on the safe side. Unless you can find someone who has carried out this conversion say 10 k miles ago and all is well or even better still drive one, so ya know what you'll be getting.

DMF's were as far as I know a means of smoothing out the pulseing effect of diesels at lower rpm to give a better driver experience - make the engine behave more like a petrol. On a 6 cyl obviously it's not as critical as in a 4 banger. I would have thought it would just feel a bit more...

Completely (I know) left field thought - crank thrust washers??? Well, it seems something is moving around. When it shouldn't - or it could be a faulty clutch cover as suggested.

When I have done 4x4 transmissions on the deck I found it useful to have two trolley jacks - that way you can perfectly align the input shaft to the centre line of the crank - using the rear one to adjust the box up and down slightly. I've also used a ratchet strap with one end on the 'box and...

Making up an alignment tool isn't rocket science - as has been said find/make a shaft which nicely fits the spigot bearing and then build it up with tape to equally nicely fit the splines of the driven plate and off you go, taking your time and using a torch or good handlamp to see clearly that...

We're all with you, Bud :)

Hands up - who's been there then - I know I certainly was getting towards that sentiment with my low brake fluid warning light fiasco. Mrs Fergie is elsewhere in the house so I can confess to you chaps, that it was the wrong end of nearly £700. I try not to think about it. If I may suggest...

I had an Alfa Romeo Spider some years back and the clutch flexi hose had collapsed or failed in some way internally and it gave me no end of grief. They can't be terribly expensive (cough) and it would serve an elimination purpose because they can fail - although it's rare.

'Tis true, 'tis true - you have to realign the ball joints if you change them so that the driveline is correctly centred through the hub.

Half a tank of go-juice chucked in..........hope it's not a hasty off-load. But it does look quite a tidy one and as has been said everythings fixable.........ish.

Reminds me of my problem I had when I owned a P38 manual diesel years ago - got my mate to bung a clutch kit in it before I set off the next day for Greece towing our twin axle caravan. Collected the car from workshop, clutch felt ok ish but a too near the "bottom" for the bite point but anyway...

Self contained hand held - no laptops, power supplies or cables required.

Was in Lidls today with Mrs Fergie and I went for an amble through their special offers bins that they have in the centre of the shop. And I found an inspection camera for £39.99 - nice size full colour display and a long probe with the camera at the end which has a screw collar for the...

Have you tried Rimmer Bros - I think I have had some from them in the past. I got my screws from B & Q as the originals looked like they had held ornaments on the Titanic. Rusty was an understatement.

P.S. Sorry didn't make myself clear - the fault on mine was in front of the rectangular hole in the scuttle/bulkhead that becomes visible when you strip everything away and you can look down onto the fan assembly. So off with the scuttle trims, windscreen lower trim, and the plate that has the...

My leak was from a hole in the scuttle just in front of the pollen filter hatch - guess it must have been there for a long time because you could see all the various attempt to rectify it. It's like a fold in the metal which is about 12 cm long and I just ran a bead of silicone in there just as...