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Thanks james, any particular sort of cleaner to go for or just a general one suitable for electrical connections?

Thanks for all the info & help. It was suggested to me that even once new injector loom in place it would take a long time for remaining oil left in the loom to work its way through to the ECU end. The old man has a TD5 as well, going to check it for the same problem, just in case; difference...

It is pretty impressive that the oil can work its way all the way through, with gravity and what not. My plan is to replace the injector loom in the engine itself, under the rocker cover. This would include a new plug to which the main wiring harness would connect. Hopefully this would do the...

When I had an Ifor canopy I enquired about a solid door and it was seriously expensive, a good way towards buying a whole new canopy with door.

Stainless steel should be fine for anything not exposed to any major stress, as mentioned it is more brittle so is liable to crack/break rather than bend. For rear x-member this would suggest that for recovery/straping points, towing gear etc proper steel fasteners should be used but body...

Recon in that case will replace the injector harness, hopefully prevent further contamination of the ECU, which worked OK again after a wipe at the engine end yesterday.

After yesterdays running issue I thought I would have a look at how bad the oil ingress problem was, I was not pleasantly surprised. Yes the bottom of the seat box is full of it and there must be oil inside the ECU as well, I removed the security screws on top with plumbing pliers and...

Fitted new aerial as old one was "inoperative", went to Halfrauds for some bits and TD5 started misfiring, temp and fluids all OK. Eventually got all 5 cylinders and went home. Wouldn't start again. Removed engine cover, evidence of long term oil leak from rocker gasket and more importantly...

What sort of help are you after? Keeping an eye on things? meet n' greet?

Would be interested, depending if there are restrictions with arriving and more importantly leaving the site. Will def. be at the show anyway though. Mind you the new vehicle is not a show piece so prob wouldn't be a good use of space!

Regardless of the back door; the seal on the front of the canopy to the back of the cab is unlikely to be 100% as it has to fit around the window rubbers the shape of the cab. More likely to get a bit of water in the front when parked in driving rain, or driving in the rain as the gutters divert...

Like so much in this country this doesn't make a lot of sense. My Defender body type is described as Light 4x4 Utility and is registered as a Private/Light Goods vehicle, just the same as my car. The only difference on the V5 is that it has the addition of a "revenue weight" of 2400KG gross...

Quite alot depends how you drive. The vehicle itself would be lighter, but in its standard form with a 1.41 ratio transfer box it is lower geared than a disco so revs quite hard at 45mph+. Also a little less aerodynamic I would imagine!

Next challenge - where to source some!? Had plans to do something similar once I knew what material would be suitable ;)

Great, cheers for the advice guys I will pass it on.

Out of interest is it possible to disable the self cancelling feature? I know someone who would like to get rid of it!

Ah super job, thanks for the link! I use eBay alot but never looked on there. :doh: Ps. went for the non-sidelight version as per the original lamps.

Last week I bought a TD5 90 from a farm and sold my TDI which I had for over 4 years. The chassis once uncovered is really sound and the bulkhead is OK. It it up for MOT in about a weeks time, and needs some general TLC. There a are a few things on the list to be done, but I would...

I only suggested the scotchlock to splice in a wire to switch the relay, not to run the lamp! On the later vehicles with moulded plug connectors your a bit short of means and space to add wiring. On an older vehicle with bullet connectors this isn't such a problem.

You can bolt any kind of worklight/fog light on the rear crossmember and run a new fused power supply to it. Use a scotchlock connector to add a wire from the existing reversing light wiring to a relay which will activate the light. Easy to wire up, you just have to locate the light somewhere...