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I bought the disco tranny innards (christmas tree gears) for 99p off of ebay. Cheek of the bloke selling them didn't give me my penny change! Fitting and re-shimming is easy with appropriate knowledge -lots on here! Alm.

For the main light switch in my 300tdi (is yours 200tdi or 2.5td?) it's in this sort of sequence: Battery -> bonnet fuse box -> blue k109 header joint -> cab fuse box -> dim dip relay -> main light switch. It then goes back to fuse box for lights, and the return for the dash light (saying...

Had a similar problem recently; flasher i s on a separate circuit, and horn should be jumped off that also. The problem here is that your side lights work, so the main switch is evidently getting power somehow...:confused: Google is a great tool to search for defender docs, but what you see...

So here's a weird one: Red dash LED for imobiliser is always flashing (same rate as I've always known it to) irrespective of engine on/off. When getting into the car, I'll use a laserline type imobiliser fob, similar to this: Imobiliser Fob The led lights up solid when the fob is in...

Now that you mentioning, I think I remember reading something about the black hinge pin at the back having to sit horizontal for it to work right. Or maybe it was a dream... Will report back on closer inspection.

So I don't fancy paying £170 for a kenlowe to replace the viscous unit on the daily driven 110, so had a look on fleabay to see what I could find. Even though there's a lot of info on here on the unit out of a Ford Mondeo, I figure if I'm paying £20-30 from a breakers, I mayaswell pay £35-40...

Amazon is best bet for the 3M stuff. My 110 needed 16 large pads (500 x 500), which cost a hair over £60. The 7mm PE was £18 for more than required. Alm.

Let me know if you're close to Bicester, I still have some of the 3M stuff and PE foam left over -haven't done roof or side panels, but there will be lots to spare. Would be willing to part with these for a beer or twelve :) Alm.

Use diesel, nitro or similar marmite eating chemical. Maybe sit it in a bucket of heating oil for a couple hours. Don't use carbolic acid or beer-line cleaner; it will eat through ally, and yur mani will bubble and fizz into a gloopy mess. If you wanna go totally overboard, you could use an...

Remove side steps (x4) off teh 110, dismantle, grind, grease and paint. Also figure out how I'm gonna connect the wastegate actuator to the plenum. Alm.

Other internet sources suggest using vas because it isn't soluable in water, which makes sense (Land Rover Owner • View topic - why vaseline and not copper grease on battery .... this would protect the terminals. My terminals were so corroded they fell apart on contact, in order to promote...

Reason for Vas rather than Cu grease? Might be an old wives tale, but I thought Vaseline would melt and then there's a fire risk with the fumes... Alm.

Burn out on one of the terminals at the C285-7 joint, i.e. the Blue K109 header behind the dash. This was causing intermittent problems. Solution: Open up header joint with flat-head, clean out blue/green crud, stuff in Copper grease (careful not to cross over the busbars which are NOT...

Horrible dash, but props for the Ladoga Trophy sticker on the back of his other whip. Gotta have some respect for that. In case you're unfamiliar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=629cqckSudI Alm.

Finished re-wiring main loom, and re-assembly of dash, now with proofing. Numbers on the same commute run, same road, same direction, same-ish weather, same car: Max. reading: 92 dB (decrease of 10 dB) Average reading: 84 dB (decrease of 8 dB) Worth noting I took the same sort of...

Looking forward to getting up to 70mph for a test run, then finding out one of the UJs is short a few needles, or exhaust is blowing. Alm.

BEFORE: If you have good speakers you'd hear the un-proofed panel has a dull resonance (thuds and resonates for a few miliseconds). BEFORE-VIDEO AFTER: You should be able to hear that the dullness is gone. AFTER-VIDEO As per previous post, mid-cab panels, seat boxes and dash are...

[after]

Photos of rear tub and second row... Got a before and after video when I did the second row seat foot well panel (very scientific). This should give you an idea of how the 3M stuff works. Description will have more info. Will post link after photos. [BEFORE]

Update: I have removed all trim and laid out the Superflex in the rear rub and second row foot wells, I have also covered this area (tub only, not side panels) with 7mm PE Underlay foam (£18 for about 15sq.m -yes I know it's flammable). Massive difference in terms of road noise, but can't post...