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I'll have a look. It's not essential (as I mentioned before) but for the sake of a connector or a couple of lucar spade terminals crimped on and a bulb fitted at the other end, it's worth it IMHO.

Thanks. Does that mean there’s s space for a bulb in the instrument cluster?

The finished article. I'm sorry that I didn't take any pictures of me pre-loading the intermediate shaft. I ended up using the string and spring balance technique, although I still have doubts as to how accurate I got it. I took all the end play out of the intermediate shaft and then by the...

Some more photos New input gear (cross drilled) to replace the old one that wasn't cross drilled... Driving the new gears on the input shaft using the inner of one of the old bearings and a bit of hardwood and a soft faced hammer. The book says use a press, but they went on without too...

Good point and I've got a cutting disc and grinder so I might give it a go. I've got another LT230 to rebuild in a couple of weeks so I will have the benefit of the experience of working on this one...

Having set the correct shims for the correct pre-load on the new taper bearings, the diff cover can be a real pain to get on, but after fiddling and jiggling, all the splines and bits and pieces line up and its time to finally fit new bolts with thread lock and torque them down. It's...

Here's one of the intermediate gear bearings being tapped into place: And then driven home with the old bearing carrier/sleeve: The old bearing outer gets 'just' caught in the housing but it comes out very easily. (I put a mole grip on it and extract it by tapping upwards on the mole grip.)

And to confirm, I've been setting the pre-load on the diff shaft with a DTI (measuring the end float and then adding 0.05mm to give the correct pre-load) I used a socket as a spacer down the end of the diff casing as I don't have a 'long reach DTI'. It's very convenient that the common DTI...

Here's my first attempt at pictures on this forum. Some from stripping it down. I'll try and get some more of the build.

I tried not to buy a cheap kit - by checking the the bearings are all recognised reputable makes. However despite my efforts, the gaskets are a bit thin... The seals that were supplied seem to be reasonable quality. They're ribbed down the sides like the original fit ones if you follow what I...

That advice makes perfect sense. Thank you. I’m replacing the bearings so they need some preload. (might as well replace while it’s in bits as even good quality bearings are relatively cheap and the tracks on the old ones are rather grey rather than shiny). The one annoyance left is that the...

I’ve tried asking this on another thread about my LT230 rebuild but it’s got buried and I would really appreciate some thoughts from anyone ‘in the know’. As I’m sure most people who have any experience of the LT230 transfer box will know, with the exception of the very early ones, the...

The black rectangles connected to B+ etc on your old alternator are almost certainly interference suppression capacitors. Your new alternator will run perfectly well without them but you may want to fit them if you get interference (typically a whining noise that varies with engine speed) on...

I rebuilt the centre diff in my LT230 with new thrust washers o the planetary gears. I also put the front and rear bearing housings in the oven while the better half was out shopping and heated them to 100 degrees as per the book before dropping the new bearings in. I’ve started shimming up the...

Totally agree with new alternator. Those figures suggest there’s very little wrong with the wiring. (No guarantees without hands on tho’) IMHO you only need a bigger alternator if you’ve started loading the vehicle up with power hungry extras. If you’ve got winches and super power hungry...

Thank you.

Supplementary question: I'm confused regarding the setting of the pre load on the intermediate shaft. The Landrover official manual says to take out all play in the shaft and then tighten the nut until the torque on the input shaft has increased by 10 ft/lbs. One video clip on Youtube...

Before you completely condemn the Lion brand of Lead acid batteries (I’ve no knowledge or inside interest in them) it might be well to remember that the quickest way to lose capacity of a Lead Acid battery is to discharge it heavily and leave it discharged for any length of time. This is...

Comparing Positive to chassis would tell you if there was a fault in the battery earth lead.

IMHO 13.64 volts (assuming his meter is accurate!) is not a healthy battery being charged by a healthy alternator. I assume this is across the battery terminals. Check positive to chassis as well? Check actual voltage on the B+ (big) terminal of the aternator?