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Theres an ordinary filter and a centrifugal filter on a TD5. I presume you change both on a service. Most of the specialist suppliers do a service kit with both in. I think all TD5 are the same but I am new to TD5's

I'm not really doing a quick fix. Its just I can use the manifold as a drilling guide to start drilling out the broken stud. Biggest problem is getting the drill centred befor I can clear & tap out the thread. Then I can get the manifold off and replace the gasket. Being a born pessimist, I...

I wouldnt drill it. Use U bolts then you won't risk weakening it. As regards the extra weight, bit of extra weight on the hitch will make it more stable at speed providing it's not so much it tries to lift your front wheels up

Stone caught in the brake disc shield?

Quite frankly with a V8 I don't think the fan really has much bearing on the fuel consumption. It's going to be pretty heavy whatever. Transmission issues are pretty well covered if you go onto Ashcroft transmissions site. Rust is the real problem and thats covered endlessly round here. p.s...

I've had 2 D1's and just got a 2000 TD5GS. The D2 is so much more refined although its a bit thirstier. Cost me £5000 which included a reversing camera and a Patriot roofrack, both of which are going on Ebay to pay for the clutch its going to need soon. ACE is brilliant but a bit weird going...

http://www.yanmarmarine.co.uk/pdfs/data/6BY260.pdf This link is for a Yanmar 6BY marine engine. It is the same 3litre straight 6 that BMW put in the X5 so its probably pretty close to what you've got weight wise. They quote 310kg without the transmission.

DRAIN BUNG METAL FOR CAVFUELFILTERS

Thats it. Got the heat shield off the turbo (eventually, lost my temper with it. Might need a new one now) Last manifold stud has sheared off and its blowing round the rear port. One bit of good news, Its just about the only one you can get at with a drill without removing the turbo. Thats next...

OK, flywheel it is then. Thanks everybody.

No, its quite smooth but it slips if you push it hard in higher gears. The main reason I ask is I got quoted £1300 to replace a clutch with "we always change the DMF as its such a sod of a job to do a clutch on one of these". I don't see why its any more difficult than a 300TDI if you're...

I am going to have to change the clutch on my TD5. I know on a 300TDI you would normally change the fork as they tend to wear through. Do TD5's suffer the same problem? Want to make sure I've got all the parts before I start. Any views on changing the Dual Mass Flywheel as a matter of course or...

Had 2 Disco 300's and both make noises from the power steering. There is a service bulletin somewhere about a harmonic vibration as the PS fluid flows through the pipes. If thats what it is then its not a problem. I think you can find the bulletin on the RAVE manual.

Mines doing exactly the same thing. Changed the belt,tensioner and idler and its still doing it. Didn't think of the exhaust gasket. Any where in particular you'd expect it to go? L.K.P. Did you get it fixed?

I've noticed when trying to change the door lock springs on a Disco that as soon as you unbolt the actuator for the remote locking, as soon as you knock the end of the piston, it will try and lock. If the actuator in the door is loose or has moved a bit, then it might be really close to its...

It's a fix for a 300 but I'd like to see it done on a TD5. You can barely see the tensioner. Just upgraded to a Disco 2 myself and it came with a squeaking belt. Replaced the belt,tensioner and idler pulley and its still sqeaking but not as bad. Water pump is next port of call as thats the...

That Difflock locking tool has given me some ideas. Should have something at work I can adapt. Once you can lock that pulley up securely it'll come off. Tried the screwdriver but couldn't get it secure enough. Thanks guys.

Once you take the wheel off, you'll see a ring of 5 (possibly 6, I can't remember) bolts. Take them out and the flange they hold is the end of the halfshaft. Once they're out just lever the flange out about an inch and you can check the bearings for play. 2" works out at 51mm so it may not do...

Difficult to see quite how much play there really is unless you take the wheel off and take the half shaft bolts out. Pull the half shaft out a bit then see how much movement you've got. You might be surprised. You have to pull the half shaft to tighten the nuts anyway. And you'll need a 52mm...

Yep, got the right spanner. Try a bit of heat on the nut next then the chisel I think.