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Time to sound like a total beginner.. but could you give me a breakdown of what I’d need and a way to make the waxoyl hot without setting fire to everything?

Definitely smoother than what came off though 😂 car does feel less ‘rolly’ around some of the twistier bends on the run into work this morning. Top bolts for the rear shock were full of crap on mine to the point I needed to use a 19mm socket to remove. Front top bolts weren’t the easiest to...

Finally got around to changing out the 160k miles old shock absorbers.. A noticeable difference would be an understatement.

Evening all, on Saturday I finally got around to get the car in the air and changed out all 4 shocks for some TerraFirma ones. While under there I did notice some corrosion and surface rust. Once the major corrosion is sorted and I’ve wire brushed off the surface rust, what’s the better options...

Well that solves it! Knew someone here would. Chances of finding one of them second hand ain’t happening then!

There’s a lot to unpack in there. But the instrument surround looks close to the gear selector and handbrake.. but very different from the centre trim.

On the way back from a shopping trip we stopped by a second hand landy dealership and I got sidetracked looking at a couple of the P38s they had there.. Looked in the interior of one them and saw this? (See attached image) Anyone know what it is/from? Ta in advance all!

Awesome. I’ll try the eraser mentioned further up first before I go grab the solder iron.

Amazing! Really appreciate the effort you’ve gone to here! Best way to removed the metal strips, would heating up the existing solder and removing them that way? Or just snip them?

Appreciate it, thank you!

That was something I considered. I’d seen someone wire in from the other bulbs, but that then only worked when side lights were activated. Is there anything that’s an ignition 12v I can run a wire off?

Thank you! I’ll dig out my pencil case. I’ll give that a try as well. I’m going to pop to a local Landy specialist tomorrow after I’ve got it regassed and see if they can shed any light before I buy a unit of eBay.

So I’ve pulled the unit apart and taken a look: The solder appears okay - no obvious signs of cracked solder. No corrosion in the connections. I have sprayed these with contact cleaner to hopefully rid anything that may have been there out. All the lights respond to the dimmer control as...

Ribbon cable is long gone. It’s already been replaced by the repair option.

You say obvious.. from memory I don’t think I did. I’ll get that checked in the morning and report back!

Evening all, you were incredibly helpful last time I posted so I hope you can help again. My HEVAC screen has an annoying bulb issue. Most of the time it doesn’t illuminate, yet at seemingly random times it’ll light up - such as a trip to Bristol it lit up as I parked up, but hasn’t since, it...

So Nanocom it is! That’s what I presume it’ll be, I just want to confirm before I go ripping my dash apart. So the hevac LCD display doesn’t have any damaged pixels, I’ve already done the repair with the new zebra strip thing. The issue I have with that display is the bulb doesn’t illuminate...

Cheers for the replies, both! Looks like piggy bank is going to be raided then! As a left field option I did see that EASUnlock V4 might be an option? I’ve used the free version already to sort a fault on the air suspension, or is the fact it’s the oil burner still going to mean Nanocom is the...

I’ve had my P38 named Big Phil for just over a year now and I’m slowly getting everything sorted to hopefully take it to some shows in the near future. I‘m now looking to get the HEVAC issues I’m facing sorted and I’ve got the book symbol on the display (when I can actually see the screen -...