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You can unplug and connect one of THESE into the airbag's connector(C0257) toward the ECU to pass MOT then you can investigate further

Hi. What do you mean by that: Read the codes and that's it? if yes you didnt run a diagnostic at all, you just checked for codes. What about live inputs fuelling recorded data? that's the way to diagnose such thing, did you check at least the live injector balances and all sensor readings at...

Hi, that code should not be displayed just like that, seems like a glitch, nanocom must show the full code description cos there are more versions of it(see attachments, that's only one example of code but the format should be like that), anyway check the ECU red plug to not have oil cos it acts...

That plug has two wires as it's the power supply for the pump, one should be live the other earth so measure across the two pins immediately after the ignition was turned on

There is a huge variety of them some reputable brands too, see HERE, it's a lottery these days, i bought a Stark to have it within reach in case of failure on mine based on my own experience with stark pumps for my Hyundai and Opel which are working great but i dont know yet how it works on the...

You'll have to see if the pump gets power and if it does means it's dead which is the most likely scenario, first check in C0376/0390(attached) from here the circuit goes to the pump... if no power we'll speak then but if you have power prepare a spare pump cos not very likely that the wires...

Hi. Charge the battery to full and try then, the fact that it's cranking doesnt mean it's enough power for the ECU too, if the voltage drops below 10.5V it will not start but will happily crank ... also check the drive belt while cranking cos it seems you lost the PAS and alternator too.

At the tail door splice into the pink/purple - pink/grey and try both polarity feeds if no joy try across pink/purple -pink/red

Being stuck superlocked you must be able to unlock the doors first with nanocom then you can disable the superlock but if the superlock motors don't respond to nanocom's body-security outputs nor to the trick with the wires then it's a brutal locksmith job to open the doors and replace all the...

I wasnt sure it would work but i thought worths a try. Then it's back to what i said in post #31 the trick with the wires must be applied to one of the other doors which are all on the same circuit

That tool is completely useless for a D2 fob, as i already explained you need the bar code or the code labeled on the PCB no way around that

The new key is not a D2 key

The brown wire in the 3 pin plug should be permannent live from fuse F7 engine bay fusebox, black = earth and red = lighting switch

it's LR009793

No such thing as transponder when it comes to D2 remote fob, it has a "chip"(called "transponder" by those who dont know much about it, shown with red arrow in the pic) which communicates with the passive remobilisation exciter coil which is around the key barrel but the discussion is irrelevant...

Yes, that's the only way

Looks very similar behaviour with the case from down under, can't you find somebody with Hawkeye or Foxwell or some other multivehicle tool which covers the D2? I observed that all the other tools are quite accurate with the ABS, they are not good with the engine or other systems

swap the two front sensors and see then, or replace the front left if you have a spare

That sentence is valid completely: "...be aware, the extra wires must not be connected to anything while you unlock with the remote, you must feed them for a second then let them in the air for remote command ... which means to let them spliced into the circuit just make sure they dont get power...

The pipe with attenuator is from pump outlet to the block, in that scheme is 11 which goes to 13