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In most cases, OEM means nothing these days if the brand is not clearely mentioned, it's just a marketing scam, the only reliabe suffix is LR for the genuines and those parts are coming in the LR box

I didnt know that there are so many Discoverys stolen

IMO a D5 should be safe enough with it's factory settings as long as the owner takes care of it's keys to not be lost no need for add-ons... that's quite valid for any Discovery with factory fitted alarm even the early ones

Most probably, they are supposed to be renewed every 105K miles or 7 years according to the maintainance check sheet

Nanocom is from a different league, it can do more complex programming with the BCU than Foxwell or Icarsoft and these are not reliable at all when it comes to Td5 engine management(i learned that the hard way), they are usefull for the other systems, OK with ABS but with less functions.

Yes, there is a RF test in BCU - Utility

Hi. Replace the interior fusebox with 100% good one removed from a facelift, disconnect the battery before the swap then after reconnection turn ignition on(not crank) and let it so 5 minutes.

AA...ha... you should have said that from the beginning, that's very relevant cos if the fob does not unlock and the door's key switch doesnt work the system is not remobilised by anything as it's still in locked condition , do you have only one fob or two and none of them is working?

AAMOF Hawkeye works quite well with the '97 V8 D1 as it is, the gist is that no diagnostic tool would work as long as the vehicle is immobilised which is the case here so the only chance i see is to replace the alarm ECU, should be programmable with Hawkeye as long as the replacement unit was...

IMO you have to replace the alarm ECU with confirmed working same part number one cos everything points to that unit unless it's a wiring issue on that path

1.Tell exactly the code description 2.The alarm LED is constantly on when you try to crank it?

Hi, if with two different ECUs the symptom and fault code is the same and the crank sensor and it's wiring were 100% ruled out then IMO the problem is mechanical but i cant guess what can it be especially if it was so from the beginning without knowing the full history of the vehicle unless...

If you want one to have reliable engine management coverage for the Td5 too then you need a Hawkeye Total ... no other LR multivehicle tool would work well with the Td5 EMS that's verified, Icarsoft is the worst of all from it's cathegory Foxwell NT530 (or 520 or 510 Elite) is better

That was the ideea based on how it looks but i didnt try myself at the airbag plug as when i had the SRS light it was a pretensioner and this kind of resistor worked for that one but the airbag side might be more sensitive.... unfortunately there is no clear info about te D2's airbag original...

Hi, did you check in the plug if it has that shorting bar or not? what code did you get before using the resistor when the SRS light first came on? also with the resistor connected into the plug can you erase the code?

The ECM or SLABS would not affect how the DCVs are managed cos it's about vehicle speed and rpm inputs necessary for the overall ACE activity, none of these inputs would cause that constant voltage on only one DCV as both should have 0V with stationary vehicle, the DCVs have common 5V positive...

If it was not made some mistake with that bypass and the wiring is intact the only problem can be the ECU in this case

Hi. Yes, seems like a wiring issue on the DCV's circuit but to confirm that you need a compatible diagnostic tool cos that "parts darts" game you played by replacing parts randomly is ineffective.. if you know how to work based on the diagrams you have them all HERE and the connector views HERE...

I didnt find specific D2 connector picture but the principle is the same on all as when the plugs to airbags are disconnected the pins to be shorted to protect from accidental deployment if you see what i mean

Actually i better recommend THIS cos it can be plugged directly into the connector as there might be a shorting pin in it and the resistor's wire terminals seem a bit weak for that