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I don't think so, unfortunately the discussion might have got mixed up there a bit... IMO if the code is for the front left but if you unplug that one and the live reading goes to zero on the rear right the problem is the rear right

Hi, it's quite common glitch, you have all the info you need HERE read it all ...btw what year is your D2? maybe i'll find a pattern cos it doesnt happen to all

IMO they are not 100% the same

That would be revealed also by some live readings unless it's replaced with a known good one based on a hunch

Hi, follow down the the battery main earth lead to not be loose or corroded (i dont know where it is connected on the defender)...according to other site it's: "Partway along the cable there is one 8mm terminal which is bolted to the chassis at the gearbox crossmember, and then a 10mm terminal...

Seems quite complicated if that's what you mean

No, that would have other symptom like overboost, it would affect acceleration above 2500rpm, find other real specialist who knows how to diagnose a Td5, as i said live inputs are necessary

Unplug the MAF sensor and see how it runs that way... if it runs well a new MAF is needed but only the genuine LR is reliable which is frigging expensive so better without it than with a cheap aftermarket which can mix up things... to avoid a guessing game the straight way to the problem is a...

Hi, Is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine? manual or auto?

^^^ That's the only straight way to fix it otherwise it's a guessing game

Actually it might work from the driver's door too if you are lucky but that's not 100% sure... so remove the driver's door card, unplug the actuator and splice with two wires into the pink/grey and pink/purple wires from pins 6 -7(attached) as to be able to feed those wires from outside...

The best would be to try with nanocom body outputs from BCU to force the superlock first to rule out the BCU before chasing other issues... you can try a trick but you'll have to do somehow to remove one door card from any door other than the driver's as to reach the actuator's connector, if you...

Then you have a serious problem as they are all superlocked which means something happned on that particular circuit... a nanocom or similar is needed to try to force the superlock motors unless it's a BCU or wiring issue... on a scale from 1 to 10 where are you when it's about understanding...

So all the doors except the driver's are stuck closed no matter what you do boot included?

I understood the unlocking thing, answer exactly to my question if you want help

So you pull the handles inside on all doors and nothing happens after two consecutive remote unlock commands while you can open the driver's door only?

But can you manually open all the doors now ?

You can't retrieve that code, if it's still the factory fitted unit you should get it free from a LR main dealer based ownership evidence if not you'll have to pay for it HERE , or it can be some retrofitted aftermarket unit without any code

Yes

Hi. swap R1(pump) with R3(headlamp wash) or with a new one and see after that, if no change there is a weak contact on that relay's circuit