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In the process of spraying mine up at the moment. Messy paint work isn't a problem really, just skim with filler after sanding and then work your way up the grades of paper. I've had to go back to bare metal in places because the previous owner hand painted using incompatible paint with what's...

Hey, Fitted parabolic springs to my (now) series 3 rolling chassis, but I don't know what height to set them at. I've read that they give an increased ride height of about 2", is this right? And if so, would it make sense to set them at standard height + 2". Many thanks, Matt

No, sorry for not being clear. I'm after the main body of the front wing - i.e. from where the wing bolts to the front panel (radiator), to where the top of the wing bolts to the bulkhead. Thanks for your reply, Matt

Hello, Desperately in need of a decent series 3 inner front wing (driver side) - don't mind buying a whole wing, but it is the inner wing i'm mainly concerned with. Live in Devon, willing to travel, please pm me or reply if anybody is aware of anything. Many Thanks

Nice looking machine, I don't usually like red series or 8-spokes - but seems to work on yours! Looks like a fairly recent respray..??

Nice - what needs doing? (asside from the recovery gear..) Chassis / Bulkhead in good shape? Like the workshop..

To My knowledge, the only differences between a series 2a and 3 chassis are the gearbox crossmembers (series 3 clutch slave cylinder housing fouls on 2a chassis member), check strap mountings over rear chassis and the front (thus applicable to you) brake pipe arrangement. Not quite sure how its...

'I want one with a solid chassis, solid bulkhead and strong engine.' Don't we all? haha, best way to go is galvanised chassis & galvanised bulkhead, but that will come at a premium (unless you do the work yourself..though still not cheap). Strong engine..if i'm being honest, I would worry...

Depends on alot of factors. One, what exactly 'clean' is, because in the world of series, you will find those who think an old series 3 with more holes in its chassis than a teabag is 'clean' and those who think a perfectly well rebuilt series 3 is 'alright but nothing special'. Depending on...

Not sure i'm following your problem exactly..but seeing as how nobody else (probably better suited to reply than me!) has replied - i'll chuck my worth in, in the hope its of some use. From my knowledge, an MOT tester simply wants to know there is no (well..minimal at least) free play in the...

From what I understand (through reading posts on here and picking the brains of those who say they know!) the diffs are the most likely thing in the drivetrain (and halfshafts) to break with a big lump up front. So for added economy & wear and tear, uprating the diffs may be a good idea...

Like this thread alot - nice honest showing of a job so many, I am sure, are keen to see. One a side note, what exactly is the deal with the drivetrain wear after a 200(t)di conversion? I know when I got my gearbox rebuilt for my series 3 the guy said alot of good boxes & diffs are shredded...

At least you now what caused the hole.. As for why the bearing collapsed, 7000miles doesn't seem much, at all. But then, I believe Land Rovers should operate a tractor style system - hours, not miles - 7000 miles in a landrover will relate to alot more clutch work than on say a ford fiesta...

Agree with the above, try searching on youtube for a video on installing vehicle glass. Got the joy to come with mine soon..

2 engine mounts front, 2 gearbox mountings rear. To my knowledge there different mounts..

"Nineteen" - because I was nineteen when I got her and started her restoration..probably be 40 by the time she's finished..

For painting the galvanised chassis you'll need to use T-wash, acid etch primer then your paint. Think original paint was matt black, I sprayed gloss though (easier to clean and liked the look of the rear cross member).

I second that...those clutch forks seem pretty solidly built to me, though i'm not sure a bearing collapse would allow that much movement inside the housing? Interesting scenario! More pictures, please?

Think what was meant was the idea that the new hole is directly infront of the slave cylinder entrace hole, i.e. you could stick a rod into where you would put the slave cylinder, and it would come out of the new hole. As for drivers side, maybe it's a left hand drive? because in the photo, it...

Looks like the bell housing to me...