Search results

My 2000 1.8 Freelander uses coolant at the rate of about 250ml every couple of hundred miles. It's definitely not getting into the oil (no mayonnaise - and 'sniff' test all clear) and there are no obvious leaks. I do notice that there are some deposits around the Expansion Tank filler cap...

Thanks for the replies. I did think it looked easiest to remove the IRD from the front prop shaft. Hadn't thought about unbolting the static damper though - cheers for that. My mate is (allegedly) going to be helping me with this job. So I may just prop it up on his forehead! Sure he won't...

Thanks OldIrishWolf. That's exactly what I needed to know; the driveshafts are a 'push fit' into the gearbox and IRD (albeit a tight one). Thanks again, Ian.

Cheers Rippedoff. It's a 2000 Petrol (1.8). And, yes, I'm going to be doing it on axle stands! I think the IRD weighs about 30 KG - so laying on your back underneath, that's going to hurt! Cheers, Ian.

One of these weekends, I'll actually get around to putting this flippin clutch in. In the meantime, another couple of questions (sorry)! I know that the IRD has to be seperated from the gearbox in order to remove the box. In the Haynes manual and the RAVE CD, they speak about shifting it...

Really! On a 1.8 K series Petrol? On mine, the front section of the exhaust bolts to the sump. This exhaust section also obscures three of the bolts that tie the IRD (or bracket) to the gearbox. I'm all for finding a short cut, but having looked at this job, I really don't think there is any...

Hi Willieba, Firstly, I'm not familiar with diesels myself, but I'm sure one of the diesel boys will be along soon to offer some advice. A couple of thoughts do strike me, though. Firstly, given the symptoms, I would have thought a dealer may have suspected contaminated fuel from the...

One of these weekends, I'll actually get around to putting this flippin clutch in. In the meantime, another question (sorry)! I know that the IRD has to be seperated from the gearbox in order to remove the box. In the Haynes manual and the RAVE CD, they speak about shifting it across and...

......But, possibly, both a case of distracting puppies!!!

Bustermilo and Northern Irelander - thanks very much for your advice. Took today off to start the job. Got as far as draining the gearbox oil and then started on getting the front section off of the exhaust. Dwonpipe bolts totally siezed - and the ones on the front of the cat are so...

Thanks Northern Irelander. I did think about dropping the engine, but I'm going to be doing the job by the roadside (not ideal, I know) so dropping the gearbox off seems the logical way forward. The more I think about it, the more I think that the fork is probably the problem. Makes sense...

That's cracking advice Bustermilo - just the sort of tip I was looking for. Much appreciated. Just one question - is it really neccessary to remove the exhaust front section? Thanks again, Ian.

Thanks Matacaibo. I did ask a similar question before about hydraulics and was advised that if these do fail, it's generally with the pedal flat on the floor - which is not the case for me. The vehicle is a 1.8 Petrol. Cheers again, Ian.

Right, difficult gearchange when hot. G/B oil change has made no huge difference. New clutch purchased, along with a new O ring for the IRD Input Shaft and a Laser Clutch Alignment Tool. Decided not to take my chances with a ECP El-Cheapo part (Transmech, or something) but went with the O/E...

Do you have aircon? It can sometimes cause a similar effect if the air is particularly humid. I have often seen a similar effect on aircraft - quite un-nerving as it looks as if the cabin is filling with smoke:eek:

I guess that you've already tried good old-fashioned Armor All? It's not permanent (in that you need to do it at every wash - ideally). But it certainly put some colour back into mine. It also have UV protectors in it - so regular use should help stop further colour fade.

Like I said earlier - bit belt and braces. The more research that you do, the more differing opinions you find on the validity of either (or both) of these tests. Given that I plan to use the vehicle for some touring next month, there seemed no harm in trying both approaches. Will...

If that's the case, I just hope I don't end up needing to ask for a tow :o

Cheers Mad Hat Man. I did already try that - took a reading of 72 lbs/ft to move (digital torque wrench in tracking mode). I think I'm just being a bit belt and braces with the Tippex test because we're planning to use the car for a couple of weeks touring in the Lake District next month - so...

Cheers guys. Bit more driving then. Thanks again.