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CTS on a carburetted one? :D If dizzy related: Are the dizzy cap and rotor arm genuine ones? It might be sensitive if not. Points or electrical dizzy? If points, adjust gaps or renew and adjust. Fuel related: Could be getting too much fuel for some reason. Clean and adjust carbs, check all...

For serious fun: V8 (Raw Power) For serious off-roading: Diesel (extremely low grunt AND potential to be a submarine) I'd prefer auto, but manual would do as well. You just need to drive 'em a bit differently.

After looking into ignition, check all the hoses connected to intake areas, vacuum advance unit, brake servo (unless you have ABS) etc. A crack in the hoses may give unmetered air to the engine, causing some running problems. IF you drive at higher RPM:s with first, second and third gear, do...

It might be something like that. When the gearbox slips the misfire is not felt so easily. So do you feel the "chatter" at some constant road or engine speed, not above or below it? And the chatter comes from engine/gearbox? (sorry about the questions, I'm not native and it takes me a couple of...

If you have a drop of engine speed when going over that treshold speed and a rise of engine speed when slowing down below that speed , then it's probably just turbine lock coming on and dropping off (gearbox starts to slip).

The engine and the gear box are mated together. It has standard LT95 V8 bellhousing with an adaptor plate (factory made, he thought it was made by Janspeed). I guess these can be found also in UK. He also thought that the Nissan with LT95 would be the safest option. I'd figure this option out...

What is the box? ZF4HP22? If so you can always find yourself a LT230 transfer box. They should be readily available on Ebay (or rebuilt at e.g. Ascroft transmissions, if you're in UK). I think that this is the easiest way IF it actually is a ZF4HP22. However, ZF and Africa...:confused: I don't...

And fit a diff-lock at front or rear. Even better.

a) LT95 is a complete unit with main and transfer boxes together. I've seen a split LT95 transfer case fitted to another main box with an adapter plate (do not remember which box, but it was manual). You need to be doing some serious engineering. b) dunno. Is it a VM diesel? These were fitted...

Most likely faulty AFM. Could be ECU aswell, but I'd put my money on the AFM. The engine gets unmetered air when you disconnect the hose (more air than AFM is telling). Hence the AFM gives faulty information OR the ECU reacts to it's information incorrectly giving too much fuel. You can check...

Manual or auto? I've done one box myself a long ago (a manual Ford Sierra 4 speed box) and also observed LT95 and LT230 overhaul closely a couple of months ago. Manual boxes can be done if you are brave and with the right tools and schematics. But I'd recommend that you have someone with you...

A little more info would be helpful. Rough running could be caused by many reasons: Is the check engine light on? Change plugs and leads. Check for air leaks. Check/change coolant temp sensor on intake manifold. Check AFM Check injectors Check oxygen sensors etc. Probably the oil is...

The lead that attaches to the center of dissy cap comes from coil. You do not have CTS.

Coolant Temp Sensor? On carburetted car? :eek: Almost like changing the distributor cap on a diesel.:D;) Change the dissy cap and rotor. You might also change the leads (if not changed within a few years) and coil. Bad coil might give such symptoms. And check, and adjust/change your points.

What about the valve block - do you know it failing? I currently do not have ABS (1990 model without TC). The ECU tells about rear wheel sensor air gaps (both - hammered them down) and some valves in the valveblock (do not remember which ones, since it has been a long time since I read the...

Why it is surprising? A person buying a L322 do not have to consider about fuel consumption - at least when buying a new one. The TDV8 has been on the market for a short period and therefore is not very common yet. It is the first diesel engine worth the RR badge - at least to my mind. Others...

Buy a new thermostat if it jams. Trying to free it is not worth the hassle. It's cheap.

Check for your coolant level and possible air locks in the system. Also check your thermostat for being constantly open as suggested above. If those are in order, suspect blockage in the heater matrix. Petrol 4.0 heats up pretty quickly. It's -7oC here now and the my 3.9 RRC heats up in 5 km...

I wouldn't put it quite like that. Try sitting as a rear passenger at -30 oC. You would want your feet to get warm - trust me. And they will, thanks to these tubes. Not everyone live around the tropics, you know...:p

A 300tdi does not have a timing chain - it's a belt and more prone to fail. I'd check! The belt might have shredded and the shreds tap against the casing. Check it immediately - otherwise it might get mighty expensive!