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Yes it does...I thought the bulb had gone, in the usual parlance, but found it was AWOL from the socket:)

This really boils my ****, you did everything right and, it appears, you end up being the loser. Does this mean that if you buy from a garage you need to ask, and get in writing, if they are the owners or if they are selling on behalf of someone else? Other than buying new is there no safe...

photo's lie...profusely!

You may discover that the damage line is where the rear wheel boxes join the outer skin. over the years the aluminium work hardens and cracks, this is why you sometimes see people use chequer plate on the sides:doh: I have the same on my landie, PO has used filler which has cracked. I will...

You will need to source the switch but they do come up on ebay..... are you fitting hazards cos you think you might break down?;)

Check that the centre carbon contact in the dizzy cap is conductive. I had one in a V8 that went open circuit, took me ages to find it :confused:

:nopics: ...and how easy/hard it was?

I have just had a look to see what has come out of the bank directly related to getting Clyde back on the road. My total so far (includes purchase and transportation) £1576.72 :eek: I have to say that I didn't have to buy front and rear land rover badges, stainless floor screws twin horns...

J reg 109 truck cab in blu....ish anti clockwise on the M25 this morning, I followed it until I turned off at J9. Ran nice and straight rather than the averagometer steering you see on many series ld's No smell of hot oil either!:)

Fitted the inner front wings and steering box cover. Replaced a couple of dodgey wires under the bonnet

Well that wasn't very helpful for answering your previous question was it? Especially as you never came back to the thread to put us right. Have you had all the wires off and cleaned the connectors and clamping washers to ensure good connection? (That includes the connections on the ballast...

in this thread:- http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/s3-diesel-glow-plug-wiring-136545.html You posted a link to the picture attached below. If that is a photo of your engine you have the new type parallel plugs as the wires are shown clamped together on the second to last plug and the old...

This is from a small amount of knowledge having just replaced my engine stop cable (marked in red on attached picture). Open the bonnet and lift the lever at the bottom of the injector pump by hand, if the engine stops you know it is just an adjustment of the stop cable that is required.

Cream swb series, 7.50 tyres, no door tops, full tilt only erected over cab, rear crossmember painted cream. usual smell of hot oil as I caught it up in Crowthorne. Anyone here?

The reason for it, I believe, is that if a wire comes loose from one of the pre-heaters more of the remaining ones are going to still work. see quick and dirty drg below.:) Regards rog8811

Welcome to the forum and welcome to taking on somone elses project, I did the same thing in that my cheap project has doubled in cost:) Your filler neck description is not giving me a real picture so if you can take a photo and post it here it may help. Regard rog8811

It depends on your pre-heaters. Are they original series type or the more modern parallel ones? These drawings may help you decide....The wire colours are what I found under my bonnet but I think are standard. If the old series type there should be a thick and a thin wire on each end of the...

I found some aerosol spray etch primer on ebay that I will be trying, no idea how good it is. The best, I found is the 2 part zinc chromate primer I used years ago, don't seem to be able to find it anymore:(

As no one else has come to your aid here I will try, those look like nice new red wires, how sure are you that your pre heaters are not the new parallel type? If they are wired like the drawing (and it certainly looks this way) make sure you bypass the resistor wire on the baulkhead. leave the...

Ditto here, my tops look to have an aluminium finish under where the paint had not keyed properly, I feel some nitromors looming. I may also try running some zinc paint inside the tops....not sure how practical that will be though.