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Regarding the gearstick vibration mine is pretty much the same, as soon as the engine smooths out its fine, I believe there is a technical bulletin saying it can be cured by cutting the weight in half, the one thats found on the selector shaft as it enters the gearbox.. Glad how you describe...

I've had a slight whine on our TD4 for ages now (prob for 10k) at around 50, which for some reason was made noticeable after fitting Pirelli Scorpion STRs. If you drive it through it through 3rd 4th and 5th at 60 you wont hear it, its more noticeable if driven gently, mainly in 5th, a tiny bit...

Quality. Mind you rather that than a dam Peugeot, just took me 5 attempts to spell the stupid word!

You would think so in all fairness, black rich running kinda stuff, did you notice any Buspasskid ??

Pirelli Scorpion STR's, replaced the Michelin Syncrones which it came home with. I did however notice when I put the first pair of Scorpions on the rear, a slight whine at around 50 appeared, crapped myself and put two more on the front within 500 miles. Still have the slight whine which it...

Could well be as you'll read a or some leaking injectors, which are letting far too much fuel into the cylinder(s), this excess fuel is then washing past the piston rings and ending up in the sump, causing the oil level to rise, and poor fuel consumption. Youv'e done the right thing in not...

Our EGR is disabled, Pierburg MAF and Synergy II. Careful when cleaning the MAF, I cleaned the one on my Audi TDI and ****ed it up good and proper!! Think from memory I used carb cleaner and didn't touch the surfaces with anything.. When ours is cold there is a slight stumble at 2000rpm if you...

Not as big as fool as me cos I cant believe I didn't read the thread above saying you sorted it.... what a gimp! Glad its sorted... cheers for letting us know.

New part number and recon part number??

Ours does that sometimes too, first thing in morning its fine, hot engine its fine, just when left for 2 - 4 hours so is just warm, not cold enough to bring in the glow plugs, then its lumpy with white / blue smoke for a couple of seconds. Try the above, and make sure it gets good runs with good...

Does the actuator on the turbo seem to move ok, they can soot up and the vanes will start to sieze and stick, if sooty they will usually not boost for a start, and it will appear sluggish for a start, then they will suddenly move, then get stuck and overboost. This normally happens if the engine...

When I change my filter I usually plug the pipe as I remove it from the filter, empty sedimenter, change filter, then put a length of pipe from the filter to a container, switch on ignition and wait for the fuel to fill everything and start to fill the container. That way I don't push all that...

Could well be the valve that controls the boost / actuator. From low revs the vanes in the turbo will move to give maximum air across the turbo, making it spool up quicker at low revs. As the revs climb the boost will follow, and the ECU will back off the vanes in the turbo to keep boost...

Most probably fuel related, fuel pump at the rear is a known problem, either that or the crank sensor or its connections, a friend had a hatefull Merc ML that kept doing that, was the crankshaft sensor...

I certainly would never buy Britpart again either, absolute cr@p.. My originals were changed as a matter of coarse with a new VCU and were in good nick. I fitted Britpart items, the bearings made more noise than a 747, changed the bearings inside the rubber carriers for FAGs, noise stopped...

There was a story of that on the Audi forums, someone had fitted after market HIDs and the dip beam was a total crock of sh!t, the filament ended up in the wrong place for the design of the headlight, ended up worse than halogens..

I'll second that about the NightBreakers, dam good bulbs. Don't HID headlights strictly have to use a projector lamp as well, so the filament doesn't every oncomer arc eye??

As above I don't think its as critical on a FL2, it uses a Haldex clutch to drive the rear wheels, and unless it senses loss of traction it doesn't engage, the FL2's turn in very tightly with no loss of speed and very easily, as there isn't a viscous pulling up tight. Having said that, if I...

Not spark plugs, glow plugs.. Test them all, they should read just under 1 ohm, if the motor is 10 years or so older for the price you may as well change them all anyway. Check the glow plug relay as well. make sure the battery is in good nik n all, diesels don't like being cranked slowly...

Maybe fairly well down to how thick the metal is the manifold is made of, if its fairly thin it may well glow..... although likewise I've never seen one glow at idle.. i guess if thickness was an issue they would all do it..