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Glad to help :-)

Doh got a new genuine green temp sender but my meter is at the workshop Soz can't help

Back to the original issue had a guy call in last month convinced of a noisy alternator and a brief squeal at starts of journeys Turned out to be a dry collapsing front prop uj I used to have a couple of shorter polyvee belts lying around some narrower but they were shorter and ideal for...

A day off being driven to work Nah it gets spoilt all year being maintained and upgraded so I'm sure it'll be fine without

I questioned a bit back if sending currents through the speedo gauge with reversed polarity was dodgy? This might be part of the reason it ain't working, ideally another speedo to try might be the answer but that's not a cheap option

It's a vdo gauge so email them for help Land rover topix website shows nothing regarding gauge innards

If you remove the motor and spin it does it feel tight? Older similar Austin/rover bl motors used to be something you could dismantle I once opened up a smiths round heater with a motor that barely turned and cleared it up and used motor grease Reassembled and it was spinning like a new one...

I wouldn't glue them personally What's wrong with using screws, Don't forget the alloy backing strips between the channel and frame

Fixed loads of these, earth issue Seen bulb holders corrode at plug pins or rusty plugs Also check bulb holder for pin out or the two terminals in side arcing out on one another

Dunno how taxation works over with you but a newly registered defender can be more expensive to tax here such as station wagon variants

You could run a wire from sender through bulkhead to speedo plug Then you've bypassed the wire Try this and if gauge rises with warm up then bingo I'd investigate why correct wire has failed later when your fresh and not so fed up but make sure any temp wirings safe and secure

Continuity test the sender wire from sender to the speedo head input cos that's where the wire goes first before temp gauge

So if the actual sender wire that runs to the gauge when earthed doesn't raise the gauge, yet a fresh wire from the gauge terminal to earth sends gauge to max Just for clarity is this wot u got If so there's your prob that sender wire needs a continuity test as the mad hat man suggests

I'm interested cos if we get u sorted it cud save my bacon too mate

Just checking, modern type wiring runs thin wall and at connections such as pins is all to easy to have a poor contact or pin out You wanna try working on a range rover with a wiring issue Hmm nasty

The outer edge where you would attach a spanner, be certain to run a good earth from say the battery or another reliable source

Yep read the review and guide I'm fitting the td5 set up to my 300 soon got the warning panel in already Yes the wire needs to be calibrated by the speedo before it goes to the gauge otherwise the reading would be wrong I'm wondering if the wire rework you did has good connections at speedo in...

Bit of a long shot but with engine warm can you run a good earth to the outer casing of the sender Keep it clear of the centre or near the green insulation See if this livens up the gauge to somewhere civilised I've heard of issues with non genuine senders but usually just failures rather than...

I'm thinking poor earth for sender body Faulty sender, although you've tried another :-/ Coolant air lock in head not watering the sender? Thermostat issue jammed open not warming engine correctly Ps how is your heater? Try try try Hope any above helps

Ok so correctly wired at gauge and sender wire earthed Max's out the gauge, great that shows the circuit to be good I would personally look at the sender area I know you replaced the sender thinking it was faulty but I think there's summit amiss here Wonder if the senders got an earthing issue...