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Washed it and checked all the fluids again since I rebuilt the engine.

There's also one for sale on ebay. From the description the guy seems to know what he's talking about which suggests it's genuine. I thought I'd post it so someone might be able to get it cheaper than a new one. Range Rover P38 remote fob receiver YWY500170 rare upgrade | eBay

Ah right, my mistake. My 1995 gives that fault at the minute just because it has no gas.

Have you looked at it and checked if it is engaging? If you look at it the pulley is always spinning but the plate at the front will not be spinning if the clutch is disengaged. It should cycle on and off occasionally if it's working. If it has a problem you should get the book symbol on your...

RAVE says that the ignition retard request is in 12V pulse width modulated format. Torque is 0-12V PWM. Engine speed is a square wave with 4 pulses per revolution.

Another few good ones: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N2ZMCsCjhdY https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Aq1PK09WqPo#t=701

Around 200-250 miles.

Where can you drive on the beach near us?

I replaced the rockers on mine with brand new ones and a supplier sent me the wrong parts which meant oil was ****ing out between the post and shaft. That caused my oil light to come on but only on idle, anything above and it would go off. So I would think you would need a pretty big amount of...

I'm not sure how you think it looks dated. I think it looks a pretty good design for 20 years old. Even the L322 (early ones) don't have a flip key I think?

There's two pipes on the left hand side at the back when looking at the engine. Closest to the front is the fuel return line and that has a jubilee clip on I think. The fuel pipe is the one at the back and that's just a nut that needs undoing.

Just follow the instructions in RAVE. It's all pretty simple as a basic guide remove the plenum, drain coolant, disconnect wires and then remove the rockers/inlet manifold. It's unnecessary to remove the rail if there's no issues with the injectors. It will just stay put on the intake manifold...

Just what I was looking for thanks. I had a quick look last night but I must have missed that page.

That's what I plan to do. Yes it's the wrong exhaust I know that, but it will be fine once I've moved the brake lines.

Can someone with twin rear exhausts do me a favour? I've just swapped my single rear exhaust for a twin rear exhaust and now the brake lines are pretty close to the exhaust. Has anyone else swapped a single exhaust to a twin exhaust, if so how did you deal with the brake lines? Alternatively...

I'll try that tomorrow, thanks.

Is what set correctly? The reeds? I've put them back in the same as I took them out. Are you referring to the diaphragm in the valve block? If so I've replaced all the o-rings and diaphragms in there. When the blue pipe is removed with slight pressure I can mostly block it off, a slight amount...

The piston seal? There's only one way it can go on and fit the brass ring isn't there? I removed them and both sets looked OK to me. I saw wammers said on another thread to put a little bit of silicon on the o-ring to keep it in place so I also did that.

Brand new last year, sorry forgot to mention that. But just for clarification, I replaced the piston seal once which made no difference. I replaced it again last weekend and it still made no difference to the compressor output. I followed Storey Wilson's youtube video on how to do it.

My EAS pump is running constantly, if I open the door to stop height changes and allow it to fill the tank it will keep running for more than 10 minutes (Not sure how long it takes I usually get bored by that amount of time). I took the blue pipe off and I can block off the air flow using my...