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i have only used ici / glasurit / sikkens paints but when i used ici polyurehane i only added 10% 1039 thinner which you can also use as a panel wipe...does it not say on the tin thinning ratios etc...if not then its a case of suck it and see on a test panel....old deviblis jga 353 were good...

no it was for the original poster...synthetic is ok as long as you do not try to recoat over fresh new paint.....but if you have to then flat it and leave it overnight or longer before you recoat as this basically closes the pores so to speak....remembering you are putting a bigger paint film on...

aaaaaarrgggh just read you flatted the primer down before recoating....you basically opened up the paint then introduced more wet paint on top....get a scotch pad and damp it with thinners and scrub it down in small areas and dry with a cloth...it will be hard work but better than repainting...

last time i painted synthetic was 5 years ago and it was for some rams for a challenger and before that in 1980:eek:....problem with synthetic is drying or curing it as it takes ages and you are putting a thick film on if you are brushing or rolling it on...then you are only air drying it so it...

repainting my ex military 109 and believe me its not waterbase paint they use but synthetic based.....hard as crap as well......i cannot see the army using waterbase / 2 pack paints as the h and s involved is too complicated but synthetic is cheaper and does the job ok........

if you let me know what primer you were using i could help you further....most problems occur when the primer has not cured properly esp synthetic primer as you be using if you are rolling/brushing....also it will be unwise to flat the primer as it opens the substrate beneath and will react with...

professionel painter here mate.....are you sure the nato green is water based as if it is it will need a clearcoat over the top otherwise it will wash off.....if you need better help i will forward my mobile number....

just a quickie:D...what do they actually do and if one or more have come adrift etc what problems can arise...i think this might be an issue with mine as its a knack to select first if i pull it out of reverse etc...once in first then no problem to go into second....cannot vouch for third or...

any links please to show me where all the grease nipples are and things to look out for when doing routine servicing...chers chaps

get the cheap fibre cloths from pound stretchers.....use a clean cloth which has no creases in but lays flat in your hand then wax in a straight line then remove same way with the fibre cloth....might have to use a mild cutting t cut like 3m finishing material first if unsuccessful.....

will do..............whats the diffeence besides a number;)

was told its only a seal thats gone and easy to do....will go round all nipples and grease them and replace all oil as we have a big drum at work and is free:D...then when i finish painting her its off to my friend who is a mechanic to fettle her,,,,,

cheers slob.....just was easy to do when wings were off thats all....just got the old girls so replacing all the oil....noticed they is a drip from the middle drum :confused:..sorry not sure whats it called

found on net that i needed 430 ml of oil so i emptied the old oil out which was around the 400 ml mark and filled with fresh oil....it came to the top of the filler plug is this correct

anyone got one to fit my series 3 109...its the one that fits between the o / s rear tub and rear end...down by the rear lights:D

whilst wings are off i gonna drain and refil the steering box oil etc....are they two types of box and how much oil do i put in...its a 109 series 3 1984 model.

in between sanding panels down prior to painting i tried to suss out why my petrol gauge is not working....the water temp gauge works no problem....at the sender unit they is 3 wires....with ignition on i get voltage on the 2 live ones and if i earth them nothing happens....i know this points to...

landy at work at the moment under going a respray but will take a pic next week.....

since mine was reg in 1984 then served in the army till 1997 i noticed the seat belts are not mounted properly...i presume this was a soft top originally then converted to hard top in later life...its the top mounts that bother me as they are bolted to the hard top:eek: and not to some extention...

the finish is 2 pack in rover atlantic green....its nice but it still retains ripples and small dents which adds character.......:D