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The P38 is way wider than the classic, of the order of 100mm, and there are no easy cut lines. You'd be better off trying a discovery dash if you want something different.

I just looked at RAVE again, I'm thinking of the correct button alright. The text in rave calls it off as the RH side of the engine bay but the photograph shows it on the left. Flip the photo and thats where it is on mine. I must think of that possibility more often when I'm confused by...

On my 95 softdash the cut out switch is mounted on the opposite side to where it is shown on RAVE as far as I can remember. I'll have a look again tonight when I get home to make sure I'm not confusing it with the alarm bonnet switch but I think thats it.

Thanks for that! FL2 wheel it is so.

We have a commercial freelander 2 at work. When they convert them to commercial over here in Ireland they lower the load area floor and in doing so dispose of the spare wheel.:eek: In its place in the remaining wheel well is a Continental Emergency tire inflation kit (there isn't even a jack)...

You sure about that? I've a vague memory of being roundly disabused of that notion:D

We have a commercial freelander 2 at work. When they convert them to commercial over here in Ireland they lower the load area floor and in doing so dispose of the spare wheel.:eek: In its place in the remaining wheel well is a Continental Emergency tire inflation kit (there isn't even a...

They came in full vogue spec. There was a beautiful 9 softdash 300tdi auto for sale in Nortehrn Ireland a few months back, all the bells and whistles. The only pitfalls I can think of with a conversion would be rust proofing on the chassis as the engine mounting points are different between...

Worth checking the crank sensor. When the engine is on the over run (deceleration) the fuel quantity measured by needle lift sensor in the number 4 injector goes to zero. To confirm that the engine is running the ECU compares the needle lift revs to the crank revs. If the crank revs show...

I'd imagine that if you think that through you'll see that the the bushings never carry the weight of the car. The weight of the car is carried through the springs down to the top of the axle. The radius arms prevent the torque rotating the axle and resist the braking forces. I'm not saying...

Interesting topic. I nearly always jack the axle under the radius arm on front and trailing arm at rear but I often think to myself that the bushings were never designed for that weight. On a side note when Which car tested the original Rangie back in 1972 they bent the axles through heavy...

Please do!!

Pretty sure I've gotten through the complete set of those over the years :D On the OP, its got to be my 1/4 drive Teng ratchet set with screwdriver extension bar. Its my first go to tool for just about every fiddly job.

BoB would say a cigarette lighter :D:D

If you're going to put it back to air put on Arnott Gen III's with extended shocks, that'll give you all the lift you need. Give me a call later about it.

I should have done that before I bought my Rangie :D:D

The forum's been acting real strange today. You see a new post on a thread but when you click on the thread it's not there. And now its listing threads as having less replies than they have!! Whats going on?

While 100% right on the RRC, I'm not claiming too much credit on the P38, after all a stopped clock is right twice a day :D:D After sleeping on it and reading/staring at the P38 diagram a few more times I've gotten my head around the P38 arrangement. I couldn't see where the rear output...

Does the lump of metal you use to bash the starter motor with when it won't start qualify as a starting handle? If so then I've got one of those too:D:D

Forum rules?????:eek::eek::eek: Thought this forum was the last bastion of free speech:p:p You've obviously never tried the 'report abuse' button on Fanatics signature, tells you all you need to know about LZ forum rules:D:D