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Excellent info, many thanks for taking the trouble to post it up The Wood Auto site does appear to give the voltage set point, e.g.: Wood Auto Supplies Ltd :: VRG46517 ...at 14.5V, so I think fitting one of these could be a big help to those of use with earlier 13.6V alternators. May just...

OK did a quick check, 13.8 V across the battery at idle, 13.9V at 2000 rpm, so not quite as bad as I thought. I think the 13.3V I remember was what Nanocom reported from the BECM some time ago, not a proper DVM measurement. Also measured voltage between battery positive and the alternator body...

Another vote for the brake pump - try pressing on the brake pedal (a few times if necessary) and see if it causes the humming noise to start. If it hums every time you press, then the brake accumulator needs replacing. Cheers Jerry

Sorry guys I seem to have hijacked this thread a bit with my own alternator issues! Will measure the relevant voltages and post back my findings.... Cheers, Jerry

My Step father's 1977 Cadillac Seville had it too - it was hopeless. Hopefully the tech has improved a bit since then :-) Cheers Jerry

My P38 came with Suntek tyres on the rear when I bought it, they were fitted by a L/R dealer as it happens (receipt came with the car). I was a bit apprehensive and mentally budgeted to replace them , but honestly can't fault them.... so they are staying! Cheers Jerry

The speed rating must be at or above that recommended for your vehicle, I know that much.... would presume the same applies to load rating. Data - good to hear your recommendation for the Good Years - I just ordered some Good Year Wranglers from Profil+ here in France (nationwide chain)...

Interesting reading! Could you let us know a little more about what is involved in changing the regulator, and where you can get new ones from...? I am only getting around 13.3V and it clearly isn't enough - car refused to start today after being used only for short journeys for several...

What did you use for the locking pin in the end? I have the dial gauge and adapter, but not the pin.... did you have to buy the L/R (or BMW) genuine part? Cheers Jerry

Yes just sounds like the bulb has blown, common problem, happened to mine. It's an hour's work max to get the HEVAC control unit out and replace it, just follow RAVE which tells you how to do it. Usual advice is to replace all the bulbs while you are at it, they are not expensive, and are...

James Entering the EKA does seem to be a bit hit and miss. The procedure I have found always works on my car is: 1) lock driver's door 2) enter code 3) unlock door 4) open door - alarm emits a 'beep beep' 5) close door 6) lock door 7) enter code 8) unlock door - at this point, ALL...

Are you sure? I thought multipath was when a direct signal is added to a reflected signal at the aerial, which obviously degrades the quality of the signal i.e. the signal reaching the aerial has travelled via multiple paths..... So what is going on is a combination of reflection and then...

I walked out to the P38 yesterday and found that it was on its knees, praying - I think praying to the God of Dunlop - "Please can I have some new airbags" :-) (sorted itself out when I started it, but slightly baffled as to how the springs could become empty at front and full at rear...

Just checked my cabin sensor this afternoon, as I think it is reading too high (checked using Nanocom). Just shine a torch into it; you can see the fan spinning and also if there is a lot of fluff in there. Mine is almost totally clear of fluff and fan spins nicely, so not sure why it is...

Had a similar problem with mine, diagnosed using Data's Faultmate as heater core temp sensor - I have only just got around to putting a new one on, and now it seems to work fine! Very easy job by the way. Cabin temp sensor another def possibility, and as you say it is unlikely to be the blend...

Re the gas smell - it is possible to occasionally get a whiff of LPG, I sometimes get this when I stop at a junction, should go away in a couple of seconds. I think, but do not know, that it is unburnt gas left in the inlet manifold which can legitimately escape from around the injector pipes as...

Recently fitted new glowplugs to my P38 (Delphi) and it started straight away when it was -13 deg .... does seem as though the plugs aren't up to the job, sadly. To help us diagnose further, describe how it starts - for example does it turn over nice and quickly and just not fire? Does it fire...

Thinking about this - surely a MAF pre-turbo will work fine, if it really is measuring the mass of air - as this will be the same in the inlet manifold too... so the MAF could be used to control fuelling. Temp and pressure of the air will change but mass cannot. Unless the air can escape...

OK will check the alternator output, thanks all Disconnecting the battery appears to have worked; the BECM seems to have reset itself and now all is working OK again. Could be feeble alternator output that caused it to go in the first place so still worth checking I think. Cheers, Jerry

Thanks Keith Following a bit more investigation this morning... 1) charging is around 13.8V, measured using DVM across battery, also tried my alternator tester (also basically a voltage meter!) which rated output as between 'good' and 'strong'. 2) Have been trying to get my head around RAVE...