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That is currently how diesel drivers with dpf removed are getting away with it... until such time as vosa decide to check ecu settings on MOT.

Pull the eas delay relay under passenger seat. That will stop self levelling overnight so you can see which corner is leaking.

As long as it visually has a cat and it passes the emissions test then it's a pass. If there is a straight bit of pipe, has been obviously modified or is just not there then it's a fail.

The 'diagnostics' consisted of plugging a known good injector into the wiring and seeing if the injector worked. A simple continuity check would have shown the same thing but not as obvious for the television!

Sounds like it's low on oil.

New shiny set of plug leads, new headlamp wiper blades (it's the little things! ). Oh and removed the rubbish standard mudflaps that don't even cover the whole tyre in preparation for something much bigger...

Window switches ok? Also did the steering wheel controls work? Would take steering wheel if you weren't willing to split. Ta

Make sure correct sensor was fitted, think Thor and Gems are very different electrically and some manufacturers list them as the same.

So sounds like genuine joints and loads of measuring or just boots. Given the potential grief, anyone know where I can get the boots from? Are they the same as disco ones?

There's a guy in Yorkshire who is really helpful and does exactly that... still nearly a grand for the kit though. If you are competent self fit is definitely the way but if you aren't doing many miles then it's just not worth it.

Well Rangie sailed through another MOT couple of days ago, strangely missing the two advisories I had last year on track rod play and corroded brake pipe, guess they must have fixed themselves.... However, what is unlikely to fix itself is the perished lower ball joint covers. Advisory only...

It really depends on your usage. I've been pondering this exact question since I got mine, and having had it a year I now know roughly how many miles I'll be doing. Based on my 2000 miles a year, the saving is about £175 a year so if you are going to pay someone to fit you'll be looking at...

Piece of cake, run it underneath and tie them up out of the way. Poke wires through n/s through the grommet there. Obviously fuse them at the battery.

I ran 2 new wires straight from the battery and through an TEC3m from ebay, it provides a permanent and engine running live by sensing voltage and bypasses any worry about drawing too much through the becm controlled live. If your van has ATC you will need to as that requires between 15-20A to work.

Converted to 13 pin towing electrics in readiness for picking up our new caravan tomorrow snow or sun!!

Are you sure the lpg wiring isn't interfering? Might be worth checking wiring etc.

Unless I'm misunderstanding where that plate is, there really shouldn't be any oil in there. If there is it's leaking from either sump gasket, rear main or gearbox input seal depending on the colour of the oil.

That only applies to diesel models, petrol needs the pump to run.

Have you actually had this on diagnostics? Although there is no fault light, live readings maybe a help.

Mine is an Autobiography apparently... the only difference appears to be a badge on the back and a badge on the dash! Assuming it's genuine (which I doubt) logbook lists it as HSE. Badge placement apparently varied according to who was sticking them on at the factory according to the P38 bible...