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Cheek lol. Show me your welding to 30 year old porous as f00k ****ty steel. I could dress it back to be alot prettier, but as long as its solid with good penetration and not just surface weld then i am not all that fussed ;)

Loads of work done again today. New Doors on with ally military tops. Swapped the locks over from old doors as i have the key and they fit the strikers better. Cut the tailgate mounts off old crossmember and welded them onto new one, fitted tailgate very nicely. Decided to modify my...

Fuel filter, fuel lift pump, injectors? Does it rev up once it gets going or does it struggle? How does it cope with accelleration and hills and stuff when it is going?

This is for 300 mate, the 200 is different

As it turns out.. you were right about the money pit, and the over priced nature!!

More work on Bogey today.... Hardy Spicers in the rear prop, new bump stops all round. And O/S/F outrigger replaced. My god that last one was a major effort. Hard getting access to cut the old one off, then finding a mahoosive hole, crudely patched up by the DPO with 1.2mm steel :/ Cut all...

Trailing arm bushes, a-frame ball joint. Check the wheel nuts on the rear wheels. And the wheel bearings. More than likely bushes or ball joint though

They both look pretty good mate, it depends on ur budget and what you are looking for. At the price point of the more expensive one you could get pressbrake or someone similar to make one for you that will be a known quantity

I have 4 HD drive members for my 90, ive replaced the running gear with disco 1 stuff. The drive members fit on the front, but the rear ones are the mushroom types. What half shafts will i need to be able to use the new members?

More work on Lé Bogey! Got my upper spring retention gear on, mounted my springs to the chassis, Got my 2" Shock droppers and +2" pro comps on. Got the rear axle in with new bushes in the trailing arms. Brakes all bled. Running Gear is now FINISHED!!!!!

You can buy shock droppers for pretty cheap mate. They relocate ur shocks 2" lower so you get the extra articulation for less outlay. Then when u upgrade ur shocks you get 4" more. Just make sure you got good bump stops

Little bit of work today. Got both rear outriggers off, prepped and welded a new one back on. The near side outrigger was the worst bodge i have ever seen. Remnants of the original were tack welded on to some copper pipe that was hammered into the chassis. Luckily i managed to get most of it out...

Have a good 10 minute or so drive before hand to get the oil nice and warm, it will pour out alot quicker. Make sure you're not tired when you do it or you'll forget to put the sump plug back in before refilling :boink:

Hey mate thanks for the concern. Do not fret however. I dunno how thick that rear plate is, maybe BigSi can have a nose and tell you. But its designed to be recovered off and is stupid thick and reinforced (also heavy :-/ )

lol i hope it washes off ok! Painting your department from now on? Its apparent actual LR paint shop employees havent a clue!

Please take all the above advice and change all the studs. Dont just say you will to avoid a scolding. Noone wants to see you in the paper

Lol ermmmm sorry dude. Hope its on the outside and not inside :confused:

Ooh cool Mate I'll have a nose now :-D

Rear quarter chassis on, locked down and sort of dressed. The shock mount holes are slightly off but that shouldnt be too much of a problem to sort out. Jobs left to do... All 4 outriggers, replace rear axle and tidy up the dumb irons at the front for the bumper to mount on to. After...

sounds like the lift pump mate yeah. if some of the internals have perished then it could be pushing diesel out the seals. You gotta replace ur spill off pipes too