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It was originally registered in Glasgow, and spent most of its early life oop north, hence the rot. Been back on the road since September, and apart from the sedimentor headache and the split wastegate hose (went like stink at 1.4 bar boost, but ate the headgasket) she has been behaving well

Cheers. It's taken 18 months to get as far as swapping the chassis, all of the major welding was done last year, with a quick patch job on the chassis for the mot. Still got a few bits that need some attention, boot floor really needs replacing, but due to financial restrictions it will be...

Had a few patches to do underneath while the body was suspended. Everything went back together easily though with plenty of copper grease applied to all bolts, want to make it easier to take apart next time, lol.

Will have to update this a bit I think....lots more pics to add after finishing it off during the first week of September.

200 or 300tdi? Try changing the thermostat first. Just replaced mine before winter and heater gets nice and toasty :) although the heated seats help a lot while it is getting warm. Temp gauge usually starts to register within 5 miles and heaters are warm ish by then. Once upto temp its fine...

Has been for over 30 years now.....used to be a type of order reserved for emergency service vehicles only, as the dealer would have to pay a higher price for the part and/or a carriage charge to get it next day.

Get the screen done before the test is done. Buy a mig and diy, much more satisfying

Get a new chassis bolt set (think lr series do them quite cheaply). Suspension bush kit, spring seats, A frame ball joint and housing, brake pipe and fittings, copper grease for re assembly. Definately budget for clutch and crank seal, timing belt kit is worth doing as well while it's easy to...

Get some interesting looks if you put an old carpet in one and took it to the local council tip

The pump can be removed without disturbing the belt according to the rave manual

Btn turbo's are good. Lots of motor factors sell them. Have had one on mine now for 2 years

Crack each injector pipe with the engine running, should rule out faulty injectors. Have you used new injector seals? That would cause poor running. Remove each injector and see if it is wet.

Buy at least a 50 litre compressor, otherwise a small one will be struggling to keep up. You will also need an air dryer, fits in line and removes water from the compressed air feed, very important if you want to get a good finish. If you can find anywhere that stills sells cellulose paint...

Did you change the filter as well? Could be blocked hence the problems you are getting. Is the level still correct in the box?

Basically, yes. Soak the bolts in plus gas or some other penetrating fluid as they are usually very tight. You will also need a new top intercooler hose.

If you have got a multimeter put it across the battery terminals with the engine running, it should be charging at 13+ volts. A lot of auto electrical specialists will check the battery for free to see if it's faulty. Not sure if it would be the same or not, but I had similar problem with my...

Remove wiper arms, then undo the screws. Careful removing it at each end as it tucks under the wing, but with careful manouvering it will come out, just be extra careful in chilly weather as the plastic gets brittle

Try removing and resaling the wiper motor and heater motor in the scuttle panel, that's where I've found leaks before now. The stupid foam seal degrades and lets water in. Reseal with sikaflex or similar to cure it.

There is a fuse in the fusebox for the dash gauges, can't remember which one, but from memory it has a picture of what looks like a speedo on it.

As a slight deviation, even electronic handbrakes still rely on a cable actuating a caliper or shoes, they just have a motor with a worm gear inside to pull the cable instead of a lever. Personally I would rather stick with a nice chunky lever to pull rather than something electronic that could...