Search results

My P38 went through it's MOT last November. Since then I've had to replace the rear airbags, upgrade the RF receiver and replace front latches plus replace a blend motor. It may go through the MOT but it doesn't necessarily mean the car is 100%.

Ours is due 13th July :eek:

My temporary fix (before I retrimmed the roof) is detailed on the following thread with a pic. Lasted a year :) http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/sagging-headlinning-p38-209433.html

Couldn't agree more. We've got a Golf GTI as a main car. My wife is preganant and the other week the Golf had to go back to VW for some warranty work. I was a bit concerned only having the P38 available in case I had to do the dash to Hospital. It's never let me down but I know if it did, it...

Surely there must be an underlying fault that is causing the overheating in the first place? Otherwise they would of needed this mod from when the cars were new?

Start glueing in the middle and then work your way out to the edges. Doing it that way means it's possible to stretch the material slightly into the curves.

I'll tkeep I'll keep my eye out for one! Thanks

Yes, I did the pillars too and the curves are a bit of a nightmare. Had to redo the first one a couple of times and then got the hang of it. Still need to redo a couple of the rear ones.

Pretty certain. Once it registers the correct temperature it's consistent for the rest of whatever journey I'm on. Normally when started from cold i.e. left overnight the temperature is correct. If I then drive and turn the car off for more than ten minutes it registers 0 degrees on restart...

My AC works, but this extract describes the fault: 'Now everything worked almost perfect, the only issue was that every time I started my RR the HEVAC started with a snowflake symbol and displayed 0deg Celsius, I then had to drive for a few minutes and then turn of and restart the engine...

Unfortunately my model has a fault Range Rover P38 Maintenance repair improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership.

Here you go :)

I brushed it onto the lining card, did a section at a time. Fiberglass is a bit of a nightmare, make sure you wear gloves or you can splinters.

Need to replace the HEVAC unit in my P38. Can anyone advise which model/part number I need to go for (mine is a 98)? Cheers!

I did mine a few weeks back in a cream suede. It looks good but don't expect it to look like a factory finish. Doing it made me realise why trimmers charge a lot of money, it's not that easy! Edited to add - I tried some of the megafix suggested on the how to guide however it wasn't very sttong...

Sounds good, I'd check they've worked with aluminium first as I believe it needs quite some prep and zinc primer, etc.

Mine has a couple of small patches of corrosion under the wing mirrors so I'd be interested in responses. I've thought about possibly sanding the area down and painting it as it's fairly well hidden and I've done some spray painting in the past with positive results. Saying that, I've noticed...

I swear the price of those goes up by the week!

Ok cheers, I'll leave it as is!

All of the pictures I've seen of P38s in access mode seem to show the car right down low on the bump stops. Mine however doesn't seem to go that low. I've included a pic (all other height modes are fine). Does it looks like it needs recalibrating?