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Yes mate still very slight misfire but it's mainly for bad idle and spluttering when engine is cold, something isn't switching correctly, as if the 'choke isn't on' effect. If that makes sense?

Thanks David I'm going to give that a go tomorrow and see what I can find! Sorry just to confirm I'm looking for the volts to be 0v then 5v, and not be a steady reading?

Ok mate, what do you mean by the heater circuits? And do you know the proceedure to testing them with a multimeter? I'm about 10 miles south of York bud....

Ok, I took out one sensor (had bodged connection) I tried the engine with that one out and it ran the same (bad) so I thought It could be the culprit, but if it makes no difference it's not causing my probs. Would a faulty o2 sensor cause the symptoms I'm having? Feel like iv tried...

Hummm, would it make a difference if i took one out? Just been under the rangie and found a bodged connector on the drivers side sensor. Took the sensor out and it had a hole in the sensor on the plastic part of the plug and someone had covered it with silicone!

Would a faulty 'Knock sensor' cause these symptoms??

Thanks alot mate ;)

Dude theres pics in this thread..... I know they are ****e pics but its the blue connector im in need of, that plugs into the sensor itself?

Does anyone have or know where i can get hold of the plug connector that connects to the actual knock sensor? I done a search and not finding anything. looks like some tool has bodged the connection! Its the Gems 4.0 V8

Thank guys! Il look them up now I know what they're called! :) Scott

Just found a clearer pic/diagram! Its the one with the green connector in the picture!?

Sorry for the bad pics! Its the sensor with the wire coming out (More or less in the middle of the pic) Theres two of these sensors, looking from under the car, the one on the drivers side is right behind the starter. And theres another bang opposite on the other side of the engine. What...

Thanks for the info mate much appreciated, iv had it on test book at the garage, was there yesterday but like you say he needs it long enough for it to fully cool down first, we only had time for it to cool forabout 50 mins so wasn't a true diagnosis. Cheers mate will keep you posted mate

I had the trims reset today, had faults codes read (none) Had idle adjusted and still runs the same, a pile of ****e! It's when I start up from cold (runs and idles fine when warm) When I select drive the revs drop straight down to nearly stall, when I go to accelerate there's no power at...

That's absolutely true fella! Own medicine and all that! Ha! No iv not had the trim reset, I was kinda holding out before I did that leaving it as a last resort? Because there's no faults showing I'm left 'guessing' as to what is?

Huh? Thought this place prides it's sen on attitude? And the 'don't like it **** off' attitude? Was just joining in! Plus I'm over £100 quid down and problem still exists!

Come on then guys! I thought you were meant to be the fooking experts!!! :p

Right this is starting to do my bastard head in now!! :mad: Its been a couple of days now since i thought my problems have gone away, but no! The engine still doesnt fire staright up, i have to keep the starter going with a bit of gas (Before it was a turn of the key and it fired straight...

Right as promised heres the out come of the problems i was having! Just to re cap, The symptoms were, Slight misfire, Running lumpy when just pulled up to a junction/traffic lights, wanting to cut out when idling, very blackened/sooted up spark plugs. Had the codes read and it had 2...

In that case i could do most of that myself as a routine (More often than once a year) then go and get the trims checked out and set. That way i wont have to pay the £145!