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I'm going to change the rear shocks and springs on my 93 classic but have noticed theres a large shock type thing in the center,this looks to be leaking and was wondering what this does and can i do away with it as i don't remember seeing them fitted on discoverys?

As said,get under it and check the props any excess movement.check for lift in the front prop where it go's into the transfere box as it could be the front bearing worn.

Been looking at buying new rear shocks + springs for my classic and noticed some companys sell new rear shocks for £10 each.I know its good to save money but can stuff be any good when its that cheap?

It works but i'll only be using it on road so will it cause a problem?

Is the shudder there constantly or only when you hit a pothole?

I've got a vibration which i'm almost sure is the front prop,Am i going to do any damage if i take the prop off and run it (k plate tdi) as a rwd while i repair or souce a new prop?

Now you mention it Yella,its normally the tools in suzuki's i see around the forestrys.

I know where Dale is coming from but its down to the individual to have a bit of common sence and not get us all a bad name. Its pretty much the same around the valleys where i live,theres loads of open ground where the coal mines have been leveled and the land left derelict.These areas can make...

Not so much a gearbox problem but a snapped bias plate,take your center console out and then take off the top housing where the stick go's into.There should be a spring each side of the stick and upright plate that the springs rest against and keep the stick in the neutral position

Sound like the problem,there is a large nut and bolt which go's through the ARB and the link.I think i'll have to take the link off and have a look to see whats worn/damaged as the mot is due next month.

Is there a heater resistor on discos? (i'm guessing yes).normally when the heater resistor fails the blowers only work on full speed as thats a direct feed from the switch.aircon when swiched on will put the blower motor on a slow speed and as said previously this is controled via its own relay...

The biggest way to save on servicing costs is to do it yourself,I can't see you saving much on the price of parts if the works being done in a garage and they are supplying them.

I was lucky to get the proper landrover manual with my RR classic when i bought it but i also got one on cd from ebay for bout £2 or so,however for some reason the ebay one only covers the very last classics and the north american models.

I've had a clunking noise from the rear suspension recently so checked it out today,What i found was the o/s/r anti rollbar droplink had loads of play.It seems like the bolt that go's through the link and the anti-rollbar is loose but it won't do up any more.You can grab the rollbar and move it...

Say the viscous unit was locked,what kind of effect would it have on the vehicle long term and would it effect the offroad ability?

The abs has been removed from my 93 rangerover,the hydraulic unit has been taken off and the master cylinder swapped for a non abs unit.I can't see the mot being a problem (never has been for mine) as the abs light will no longer function at all.

I'm sure theres 2 types of fuel sender,the earlyest ones were metal and used to rust where the pipes go into the top,they were replaced by a plastic type and the wiring was different but could easily be cut and joined to work correctly.

Looks the same handle as the discovery,they seem to be easyer to find breaking for spares than rangies.

Thats still a good price for a viscous fan,I've found island 4x4 to be good.Is there much chance of the failed transfere unit causing any long term damage?

I think the autobox is the answer there.