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I've noticed that there are several types of spilt charge/ battery managment systems around. The split charge relay type are pretty cheap, but the managment systems can cost a fortune. what could the pros and cons be, I'm not sure I want to spend £300 or so on a set up I dont need. My...

I think I may pop to my local spares shop and see if I can borrow a couple of batteries to see if they fit. As Redhand says, it seems very popular to have a split charge system in the seat box. I just got an email from Gwyn Lewis 4x4 who sell these and he says "yes it will fit no problem just...

I'm looking to put two batteries under the passenger seat in my 200tdi 110 CSW. It looks a bit too tight under there for two batteries without some chopping and welding. Has anyone here got 2 batts fitted there, if so, did it need much mucking about? and any pics would be well appreciated...

Yeah, whilst it's all apart, I may as well get all the bits fitted to save re-doing the whole thing for a £5 part in 6 months time. Humm, the paddock site is down at the moment, have to look tomorrow. 'bait

My thrust bearing has gone (or so the misses says!) on my Defender 200tdi and the chap at my local garage has agreed to fit it if I supply the parts. I figured that while I had a choice, I would look into getting a heavy duty clutch whilst it had to be changed. The obvious replacement is the...

Iv got a 200tdi CSW and I'm due to replace the wheels some time later this year. I was looking at getting wolf rims but was a little unsure about a couple of things. Will I need to get longer studs? Is the offset the same as standard steel wheels? What is the maximum size that can be fitted to...

I would expect the rear to lock up first on most non abs cars, particularly cars with a high center of gravity. The rear wheels don't do too much stopping as most of the force is borne by the front wheels as this is where momentum is trying to push you. You should try cadence braking. When you...

5K should be enough to get an fairly good, rust free example. As with any defender, check the problem areas: the bulk head, rear cross member, door pillars and bottoms and out riggers for rust. Surface rust is normal, but holes are not. If you are lucky, cars on galvanized chassis turn up from...

I think it depends on what you want out of a car. If you buy a 20 year old car, you are going to have a lot more work than one that is only a couple old. maintenance is easier (IMHO) than on other cars and can be done cheaply. I got mine because a good friend is a bit nifty with a trolley jack...

I broke the fuel pipe on my sender unit and replaced it a while ago. I did a long journey soon after, London to Dorset and back. On my way home, I saw the fuel gauge and thought, "ohh, that’s good, we have used hardly any fuel, there is still quarter of a tank left". Five minutes later and...

I vote for the bottle jack too. You can get a small 6 Tonne one for £15 or so from Machine Mart, if you pop a couple of 12" bits of 2x4 wood, you can do almost anything!! The wood helps build up a bit of height when needed and will spread the load when jacking on soft-ish ground. They are also...

I'm not sure that would fit too well. That strip has a lip on either side and they would stick out the bottom of your door if you put them where the current channels are. You could put them above the current channels, but you would have problems attaching them as the door skins are alluminuim...

I, as I sure almost every defender owner has, have the same problem with the door bottoms. I found that a rub down with a wire brush to get the loose bits off and a liberal coat of some thing like Krust (rust inhibitor and reverser) appears to have worked a treat, and is a damn site cheaper...

I removed mine recently and I found a hole in the side wall (as opposed to the face) of the hub (about 10mm or so). I put the spanner on the 32mm or whatever nut to and placed a short 10mm bolt into the hole. I then used a chisel and a hammer to strike the 10mm bolt, this stopped it spinning...

Problem cured (for now). I refurbed the PAS pump and the bubbles seem to have gone, thank god. If I never see a steering pump again I shall be a happy man.

I've just done this job, if your pump looks like this one then this is how it comes apart. Remove the pulley wheel by unscrewing the 3 bolts (not shown on pic) Use a puller to remove the triangular flange (it is held on with friction and may be very tough to remove) undo the big (21mm?)...

Lol, oh yeah.. I hadn't noticed that as my steering pump is off, along with the belt. Well, thats that then, Ta. 'bait.

I got a 1992 110 CSW and the doors were also knackered. That was the liest of my problems... I quite enjoy working on my landy, but to get it through the MOT it needed sever things. Rear crossmember - took ages, if you do it, pay the extra couple of quid for the one with the fittings (cost...

I'v taken my viscous fan off (good riddance) and put an electric fan on, works a treat. Now, I'v got to replace the fan belt (the one that runs from the engine pully at the bottom, to the alternator and to the fan)as its knackered. I presume that the bottom wheel powers the belts and that the...

True, true. I was just interested to know if anyone has had any experience of them. I think to get any return on the fuel savings I would have to drive a long way indeed!