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The next owner would probably thank you throwing it away as long as you you told them !! As the nut goes onto a stud ( obviously) what minimal turning effect on the stud is there anyway ?

Throw the top nut away once you've managed to get it off ! Very satisfying and as it's on a stud not sure what good it does anyway. Done 100k without it.

Paul - thanks, I just wondered if the part number was different due to the different length of wire for the ABS sensor between front and rear as both of these examples are supplied with the sensor.

Grind the nuts off , trying to remove them is almost impossible - and make sure the new one comes with nuts as the last one I got didn' !

Just found this - anyone confirm if this is true.

Are the front and rear wheel hubs on a TD5 the same & interchangable apart from the length of wire for the sensor ? Thanks

You will need to route the camshaft oil breather into a catch tank to get 100% clean air. Plug hole in air filter to turbo pipe with a wine cork (plastic variety) and jubilee clip. I'm getting low 30's mpg having done all thats been suggested so far.

Have you run out of space in the engine bay ?

As soon as you depress the clutch cruise control will cut out

I did use the one behind the fuse box, pushed a coat hanger through the rubber bung from the engine side, followed by a piece of string followed by the wire, seemed to work OK. I also looked at a friends V8 and looked liked there may have been a way in from the passenger side but I can't recall...

I agree, all the ones I've done in the past came with nuts. When I rang the supplier he said none of them do any more but he had them "on the shelf". Fat lot of good as I needed them on the link bar and not 15 miles away in a box !

Take the wheek off and use a grinder. BUT when you get the new one make sure you get the nuts as well, they don't come with new nuts as standard any more. Double hit from the manufacturers, reduce cost (no nuts), extra revunue (sell nuts). Didn't realise this until I took the drop link out of...

Similar problem recently, slave cylinder seal leaking. No visable signs of leak but easy to replace and sorted mine out. Could be master cylinder, probably same symptoms.

I'd say walk away - Friday afternoon car, I'm still running with the original exhaust, disks, 3 hubs and brake pipes.

Very unclear from what you've said what your problem is..."I'm not getting anything on the pedal" - does this mean it goes all the way to the floor with no resistance ? "..my clutch pedal went about an inch before there was pressure..". Sounds like the slave cylinder is on it's way out, pressure...

On fourth incarnation, first one leaked, tried the O rings, no joy, replaced with second hand one which lasted a few months and lost pressure but didn’t leak. Bought just the regulator bit off Ebay which seems to be working OK ish. Circlip goes in OK with careful use of screwdriver or correct...

Agree, probably a hub issue IF a new sensor has been fitted. Front O/S sensor probably not generating any signal so ABS assumes wheel not rotating, system thinks N/S spinning and lost traction so applies brakes to N/S to allow O/S to rotate. I think thats how it's trying to work !!

Why do people try and drive as quickly as possible - you wouldn't need a snorkel if you took it slowly, you're not trying to recreate a tsunami in Essex! Seen the same with drivers on rough green lanes, going like hell and destroying everything.

Upside Down In A Ditch - and I haven't even had a drink yet, sorry

It's the UDIAD warning