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Do me a favour - tell Bell I made the recommendation - they have been really helpful to me recently.

Bearing arrived just waiting for oil seal and a break from the rain.

I spoke to Ken from Bell Engineering today - what a fantastic guy - so knowledgeable and so helpful. He talked me through the job so I will give it a go myself. First problem is that Land Rover no longer supply the bearing and only supply a complete housing at a bit over £200 plus VAT ...

I don't quite understand the logic here. Calipers can become resistant to returning through a build up of rust or crud under the seal thereby causing the piston to be held too tightly - braking pressure forces the piston out and as the seal is in effect distorted by the stuff under it the the...

Sticking caliper or other caliper related parts. Caliper piston and seals or pad pins etc. Strip them down rebuild and clean

Yes absolutely - I will post up once I have spoken to Bell Engineering and then as I go about either fixing myself or getting done.

I just dropped an email to Bell Engineering asking if they could advise - it is 7.30pm on a Bank Holiday Saturday and they replied - offering to talk me through the repair I need to do if I ring them on Tuesday. What fantastic guys - they are the best without doubt. I am told the housing comes...

I have opened up a new post called IRD Driveshaft Wobble There is another problem now and I ned some advice please.

OK does anyone know how this job can be done? I realy dont want to buy a new IRD. I will go back under the car on Monday to have another look but I seem to think that the bearing may be in a housing that can be removed. Is this a very specialised job?

Cheers Hippo / that looks promising indeed.

Some of you may have followed a thread or threads I have had about this wobble on acceleration which has foxed me and a mechanic I use somethimes. Changed lots of parts including both front driveshafs and lower engine mount etc. Today I took the prop off and it was worse so went under for a...

Snap

New pads? Take pads out and smear some copper grease ( only a little) on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston - usually works.

Bell will do it while you wait - its easy to do. It's worth the drive up and get the swop done by them - they kinda know what they are doing. Austen from Bell is on here - give home a shout.

Have a look on the Bell Engineering website - all explained - I bought a 90k mls one and got them to change it as a matter of course - I got piece of mind for £250 ish - worth it.

Done mine the same way a few times

Go online and pick the cheapest and do the same every year if the renewal is not cheap enough. I used Swift this and last year - just over £200 I am 56, retired and live in rural Wales The site Go Compare is a good start point. Forget customer service - it doesn't exist and where it does it's...

My Pietsburg seems better than my Bosch with Synergy 2 - smoother take up - perhaps a bit more torque?

If all is ok the light will not go off unless reset by a dealer or someone with a Hawkeye - it's a safety feature - no way of switching it of otherwise even though all is ok. Common fault is the connection under the seat gets disturbed and on comes the light.

That's about 37.5 miles per Gallon - that's kind of ok but it cannot be accurate if you use your fuel gauge - best to do a brim to brim test.