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I will endorse that - great guys

If its glue stuff try WD40 or even Coca Cola - both work well - slow but sure.

The Hawkeye is the only one to do pretty well everything - it has the Landrover programme in it. I have a small £50 Autel that Rovet Ron recommended - it's neat cheap and useful but only reads and deletes basic codes. For example if your SRS light comes on only the Hawkeye will put it out. If...

Have you got a photo of the seats? Are they a full front and back seat set? Cheers

Sorry to butt in but is this a replacement LR kit?

Yep I will if I do it - I need some time and good weather first - also got to wait for builders to finish work around my house. Gathering info first. Can I check for wear without stripping it down?

Ok great, logged

Freelaner thanks for this. I have done most things but never a diff so any help and advice is welcomed. I have a 3 leg puller and a very heavy vice but also access to a press.

I am going to explore the innards of my diff to see if there is a worn bearing there. Those who followed my previous posts will know of my attempts to get rid of a wobble on acceleration. This is my new direction having changed just about everything else. So how difficult to open it up and...

I use a free product called SynchToy - it allows easy back up to an external drive in a number of ways - the most used is Echo which replicates your PCM drive folders exactly on a USB hard drive. The beauty is that is is exactly the same so when you plug in it looks like your PC folders. Also...

I always use Kwik Fit for this - just make sure they know how to take the sump pan off! Always been a good job for me.

My unit has 8 as Med med that's what I use and the switch to Eco mode most of the time - works fine

You can only use it on 10 with a Piersburg MAF - 1 - 5 with Bosch and 6 - 10 with Piersburg

Watch the plastics if you use a hot air gun

Ah didn't realise - here is a video -no use to you now but someone may stumble on this who hasn't stripped the head off. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E88DhZGCat4 In your case I would use a hot air gun to warm the head up then do as I did.

Leave everything connected - squirt copious amounts if wd40 around the injector bases. Leave over night. In morning start engine and warm it up to normal temp. Switch off! Then disconnect everything but leave the fuel pipes attached to the injectors but losses then and swing the pipes up out of...

Why are you taking it off - I see from your profile you tow a horse box and horses - taking off the prop will drastically affect the pulling experience - loadsa wheelspin when towing etc. If its a VCU get a replacement from Bell Engineering - less £300 fitted.

But I had it with the original shafts - I think my problem is a rogue injector. I can't go with the secret patent thing as something as fundamental as that would be big news. Are you sure that your chat with LR was with some one who knows and not the many who pretend to know stuff that doesn't...

Mine moves up and down for a few seconds by a couple of hundred rpm - its just the ECU and injectors doing their compensation bit I suspect.

It's about 5 hours work maybe if the person is good 4 hours. I had slave and dual mass flywheel done - I supplied parts £200 labour