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I have Kumho tyres on my 86. Nice tread, good handling, reasonable price. Other than that a search of the site might be revealing..

You need to be able to turn the key to disengage the pin - the pin is not in direct alignment with the release hole in the lock assembly/switch. You might end up drillling out the old lock, or get lucky and try whatever old keys you have about the place.

Definitely no stainless unless separated by a non-electrically-conductive barrier. I use galvi washers everywhere I can and high-tensile hardware with a chromate coating - it holds up very well. Alan

OK, i'm going to reach on this one but I might suggest that one of your dual-filament-bulb sockets has a short in it or someone's jammed the wrong bulb in the socket and shorted the two across. As far as what's coming back from the front stop is 1 wire, taillights/license plate light is 1 wire...

Another thing to check is the float level in the Zenith. if you set one with nylon/plastic floats to the 33MM setting fromt he LR manual it's too low and the truck will feel like it can't pull the skin off a pudding. Proper setting is 30.5 - 31.5MM from the gasket surface...

Couple dumb questions: 1. how much oil is it using? 2. How bad is it breathing out the valve cover? 3. Does it do this if the breather from the valve cover is disconnected from the air intake? Were it me I'd get it hot, then get under the hood and rev it and see what it does while examining it...

If you don;t ask questions you don't known now do you? No worries. Were it me I'd put a bit of modeling clay or the lie in the socket on the master cylinder - shove it straight into place, then pull it back and check the thickness of the clay. Clean it off afterwards, of course. This will give...

OK, when you say fishtail you mean the arse end's dancing or the steering is oscillating? If it's the back end, then bushes or the A-frame balljoint letting the axle move about. not so good. If the front-end is going into oscillations then that is the thrice-damned deathwobble. Panhard rod...

Just as a number my 2.25s tend to run 20 PSI or so with oil warm - that's 15W40 oil and engine at operating temperature. I might suggest that if your stop cable is getting warm there is a definite issue with your grounding whether the cable is there or not - it's lying down on the job. :) When...

Yes - ran into that on an 88. The pushrod distance was a little out - not enough to totally bugger the braking system and lock it up but enough to partially restrict the fluid flow to the back half of the system. Back brakes were CRAP and bleeding them produced bugger-all for fluid - very...

Sounds like a chav on holiday. :)

OK - try that again but pump the brake pedal a dozen times or so to exhaust any vacuum it might have. Might just be you have a good tight set of seals in the vacuum. Also, check the vacuum line between the manifold/pump (what the hell's this got for an engine?) to make sure it's not collapsed...

OK, that being said I'd clamp off the flexies one at a time to see what's getting lost where. This way you can isolate the potential fault to a corner/end before continuing the repair diagnosis. As far as your questions, the booster should not need replacing if iit's working at all - and it...

Before you start throwing parts at it replace the brake fluid. It's amazing what new fluid can do for a system. Seccondly, adjust your brakes if you have drums in the back - that can help as well. How worn are your pads and rotors? Diagnose the problem before you start heaving parts at it. That...

Primer is porous and relatively fragile as paints go - they're designed to build and be sanded then sealed with a top coat. You really want something over top of it.

OK, one thing i have not seen people mention - and this has bitten me on the rump before though on a Series - master cylinder to booster/pedal box clearance. Had one where the bolt setting was just a weeny bit too long and the front brakes would work great - but the backs weren't worth a rat...

Starter to alternator likely not - that's downstream of the battery to starter connection. The wandering voltage sounds more to me like bad connections at the battery cable to the harness - which is at the back of the starter. Dumb question, but have you had all the cables off and given them a...

Re: Checking your nuts: Sounds like a personal problem... :) More seriously, had one of the little prats in the neighborhood do that to my 88 long ago. Ruined the wheel but thankfully I caught it before the damn wheel came off. One thing to watch out for is looseing if a wheel doesn't seat...

Re: Drive flanges: One way to tell on that is just to pop the hub caps at the back and try the drive. If the shafts don;t turn in the drive flange the problem is further inboard. Good call, BB - I always forget you speed demons in the UK strip drive flanges on a regular basis. :)...

You have likely broken a rear half-shaft in the rear axle. Put it in high range, let out the clutch and see if the driveshaft to the back is turning even though you're not moving. Repair is simple though labor-intensive. Source two new halfshafts, gaskets for the drive flanges and a...