Rear pads not clearing rust of brake discs

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trax said:
you can sandpaper them if you want.

since you are so concerned, i'd ask a garage with a 4x4 roller to give you the braking efficiency of each wheel. that will tell you if something is wrong. it will only be 20-30quid
Click to expand...
That's the next thing I think trax.
 
Swapped the pads round and it's the same too. In case one had glazed up or something.

The discs are getting worse too. Look worse than the pictures at the start of the thread.
 
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Just so this may help or may not help others. I thought I would update this, it appears this can be a trait of some defender 90's. Even though my dad has the same model defender with an old/rusty brake system; he doesn't have this trouble.

Shortly after the end of this thread, Jan 2015... I had the rear pressure releif valve/bias valve replaced (OEM), along with a new rear braided flexi hose. At the same time I had new AP rear calipers to replace the 6 month old bearmach ones. And finally a brand new vacuum pump.

This leaving literally nothing left of the brake system left to replace other than the T piece on the back axle.

Unfortunately after all this money spent, I still have exactly the same issue when I checked the rear brakes today. What a waste of money! Land rovers ay
 
OK, one thing i have not seen people mention - and this has bitten me on the rump before though on a Series - master cylinder to booster/pedal box clearance.

Had one where the bolt setting was just a weeny bit too long and the front brakes would work great - but the backs weren't worth a rat butt.

Might be worth a check.
 
mrchurchill109 said:
OK, one thing i have not seen people mention - and this has bitten me on the rump before though on a Series - master cylinder to booster/pedal box clearance.

Had one where the bolt setting was just a weeny bit too long and the front brakes would work great - but the backs weren't worth a rat butt.

Might be worth a check.
Click to expand...

Now that's got me thinking. Thanks for the reply!

So is that the pushrod that the master cylinder pushes upto inside the servo?

I am on my second brake servo, but it's still not to say that it doesn't need adjusting.

Would that be restricting movement in the master cylinder so that the second circuit (rear brakes) is barely working?

Thanks
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Now that's got me thinking. Thanks for the reply!
So is that the pushrod that the master cylinder pushes upto inside the servo?
I am on my second brake servo, but it's still not to say that it doesn't need adjusting.
Would that be restricting movement in the master cylinder so that the second circuit (rear brakes) is barely working?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes - ran into that on an 88. The pushrod distance was a little out - not enough to totally bugger the braking system and lock it up but enough to partially restrict the fluid flow to the back half of the system. Back brakes were CRAP and bleeding them produced bugger-all for fluid - very low volume.

My first thought was a restricted flex but when that produced nothing better I started looking over the master and realized it was a wee bit out.

Might be worth a try just shortening the pushrod there to make sure the master isn;t sitting slightly compressed. Again, I am not going to guarantee this is the solution but with all you've been thru it might be worth a look.

Alan
 
mrchurchill109 said:
Yes - ran into that on an 88. The pushrod distance was a little out - not enough to totally bugger the braking system and lock it up but enough to partially restrict the fluid flow to the back half of the system. Back brakes were CRAP and bleeding them produced bugger-all for fluid - very low volume.

My first thought was a restricted flex but when that produced nothing better I started looking over the master and realized it was a wee bit out.

Might be worth a try just shortening the pushrod there to make sure the master isn;t sitting slightly compressed. Again, I am not going to guarantee this is the solution but with all you've been thru it might be worth a look.

Alan
Click to expand...

Thanks for your Help Alan.

So I undo the master cylinder off the servo, and look inside the servo. There is the push rod, how do I go about adjusting the rod? And which way?

I've done some research on adjusting the rod, does it give more brake pedal travel? (I haven't got much travel at the moment, although it feels good). I've also read that adjusting too far can cause the brakes to drag. How will I know I've got it just right?

Sorry for the questions. Many thanks!
 
ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:
Thanks for your Help Alan.

So I undo the master cylinder off the servo, and look inside the servo. There is the push rod, how do I go about adjusting the rod? And which way?

I've done some research on adjusting the rod, does it give more brake pedal travel? (I haven't got much travel at the moment, although it feels good). I've also read that adjusting too far can cause the brakes to drag. How will I know I've got it just right?

Sorry for the questions. Many thanks!
Click to expand...
If you don;t ask questions you don't known now do you? No worries.

Were it me I'd put a bit of modeling clay or the lie in the socket on the master cylinder - shove it straight into place, then pull it back and check the thickness of the clay. Clean it off afterwards, of course. This will give you an idea if you have any clearance at all.

Barring that, just turn it back(away from the master) a turn or two, then try the brakes again. It's likely a real margins situation if this is the problem - a little extra clearance is going to sort it.
 
If it's anything like mine the rod coming out of the master cylinder has a hex on the end that you can screw in and out. If you put a brick on the brake pedal it makes it stick out a bit more so you can get at it. Or I wedged my pedal down with my Disc Lock. I gripped the shank with pliers and wound the nut in and out with small socket. Yes, it's better with a little play between the end of the rod and the master cylinder piston in the resting position. You have sense of a little more travel on the pedal before the brakes start to bite but once the pedal is pushed down further they work much better. It helps also if you go for a drive, because the full effects of the servo don't make themselves apparent for a a few miles - if the rod is sticking out too far your brakes can be fine with the car at rest but you can find them binding after a few miles, for example.
 
mrchurchill109 said:
If you don;t ask questions you don't known now do you? No worries.

Were it me I'd put a bit of modeling clay or the lie in the socket on the master cylinder - shove it straight into place, then pull it back and check the thickness of the clay. Clean it off afterwards, of course. This will give you an idea if you have any clearance at all.

Barring that, just turn it back(away from the master) a turn or two, then try the brakes again. It's likely a real margins situation if this is the problem - a little extra clearance is going to sort it.
Click to expand...

Brown said:
If it's anything like mine the rod coming out of the master cylinder has a hex on the end that you can screw in and out. If you put a brick on the brake pedal it makes it stick out a bit more so you can get at it. Or I wedged my pedal down with my Disc Lock. I gripped the shank with pliers and wound the nut in and out with small socket. Yes, it's better with a little play between the end of the rod and the master cylinder piston in the resting position. You have sense of a little more travel on the pedal before the brakes start to bite but once the pedal is pushed down further they work much better. It helps also if you go for a drive, because the full effects of the servo don't make themselves apparent for a a few miles - if the rod is sticking out too far your brakes can be fine with the car at rest but you can find them binding after a few miles, for example.
Click to expand...

Thanks for you help guys.

So am i looking for clearance between the master cylinder and servo push rod? If so, how much clearance is ideal?

Im struggling to comprehend what affect it has on the master cylinder and hydraulic system, affecting the rear brakes. Im very hopefull it will work though, because with everything else replaced, its the same as most other 90`s on the road with no rear brake issues. Ive done alot of searching regarding the servo rod adjustment on other forums, and it does seem to have an effect on the rear brakes.

thanks alot
 
I can't say 'it needs to be exactly 2.32 mm' because it's not like adjusting valve clearances. Wind it in and out a little to see what works best. I've found a place for mine where the brakes don't bind but you get the full braking effect well before the pedal hits the bulkhead. It's been through a couple of MOTs like that so it must be OK.
 
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