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I have just purchased one of my excustomer vehicle it has a 4.6 converted d2 with 300+ bhp and gas yesterday I went to Cambridge from Leicester and it was crap on gas poor performance and generally run very poor switching over to petrol and it was ace me personally now looking for a full petrol...

The disco was never fitted with the Borge warner transfere box. You can easily say the fault will be a tired engine in need of a bit of tlc a cam and a top end rebuild for starters

what exactly was the emissions reading? i did a brand new engine last week with only 100 miles on passed with flying colours

Or the bung has been overtightened and it has stripped the threads out! You wil need a helical kit or a bigger bung and regal a new thread

The spider does not affect the alarm it is the alarm that controls the spider. I take it that the car locking works on the key? Then you properly have a issue with the remote or the alarm unit get alarm tested and properly have e remotes recoded or new remotes

Let's start with the basics poor timing worn disssy faulty vac unit,running constantly of gas with do more harm than good, plugs leads cap and rotor ram gen items. Efi faults duff Afm, worn out engine try a comp test properly cam rolling road is expensive way to find out any v8 over 70 k will...

As you have not isolated the fault fitting another fuel system will not help as you will still have an issue. Are you sure it is not a mechanical issue or fault?

I would guess if you have a full tank and no issues then it is the pump pipe to the top of the tank and you will need a new tank unit very common more so in the diesels but have done a few petrols over the years. As the p38a has coil packs the leads need to be invert sercure if any of the leads...

Raving man as has been stated the problem is the lambdas are not switching and sending a value to the ecu! So how can a injector fault cause the problem? As the gas system lights of the lambda sensor for a signal then in theory as Bill is running open loop then the gas will not be furling...

Just one to throw in if you have practically eliminated the electrical side what about the mechanical? Worn cam is a fav number one is very prone to wear how many miles have you done On the electrical side the ecu switches the earth on the injectors to pulse them. Also you can use a multimeter...

Ok start at the top Are the cap leads and rotor original dealer kit? Does it have e massive amp under the coil? Is the vac unit working on the dissy? Have you done a throttle pot set up and the set up of the Afm? Have you eliminated all the air leaks? If you can run the car up on axle stands run...

Ok start at the top simple silly questions 1 does it happen when hot or cold 2 when is it at it's worst? Hot or cold? 3 when was it serviced last? 4 does it have a gas conversion? 5 Is it worse when you have low fuel in the tank?

The push rod wear clearly indicates more of a valve train issue worn cam and sticking follower or less coman is a sticking valve due to valve stem seal failure and the valve has been stuck open and the compression and firing has closed the valve back up what does the top of the valve and rocker...

If you have a lpg system then you can go for the Mot but it must be tested on the fuel it is presented on If your gas system is using the lambda sensors for the log then you can remove the cats but will need to keep the lambdas fitted and connected If you do not need the lambdas then you can...

Do t bother with the lambdas Connect a ohm meter to the outer two pins on the Afm and turn the screw to 300 ohms resistance this set the Afm to 1.0% at idle which should be right Until you have the rst fitted you will not have a proper idle control or the ecu understanding when it is running or...

Check the abs module for water ingress and get the ecu fault read it could be a alternator fault due to being washed

I'm assuming you have a d2 v8? If so and you have gas then you can remove the cats and fit headman headers with lambda sensor boss's to keep the lambdas but if you have pre and post cat lambda sensor then you cannot remove the cats until you have swapped the ecu chipping the ecu will not gain...

There is a guy in Newark he does the whole job remove and refit was impressed with it It should be temp checked with a tested connected as there is a temp sensor in the box so will give a different reading to a infa red joby And yes I do refeere to the gearbox ecu fault memory

Have you bled it correctly or it could be a blocked bleed pipe if not then yes block is fav sorry to say

Using textbook you can do a global ecu test this will show which ecu is not communicating thus allowing a fix most coman is steering angle sensor,abs mould and the headlamp unit wire chaffing is still not a regular issue