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its a dry contact in the window lift ecu

as fet says you do have a self locking diff and if it is a se it would also have traction control on the rear axle too

we use the ceramic seal and it is done in the machine shop to produce a more even coverage of the water ways rather than add a bottle to the whole cooling system but have and will do both systems

that does not make sense! as the valve is still the same length and goes though a slightly longer travel but still clears the valve stem seal so cannot see how your argument is sound?

i am not taking a dig at you but trying to put into context that money you have spent on repairing it why scrimp on the engine?! the options of the sealer is give what others are not a near 100% cure as we are aware the top hat liner is not a cure. im not going to go over well worn ground to...

But that ain't the point if I can make a reliable rover v8 with the power of the yank v8 for less than a yank then it is a viable proposition. Can only see from you narrow view point of only a 3.5 will do ain't going to give you better power and better mpg! Ok put it another way you have spent...

You are all barking up the wrong tree! Land rover never produced a single ox sensor in that location looks more like it had a single point gas system with lambda sensor detection but was fitted so the sensor sensed both sides of the engine rather than one like most crappy system do!

Bit harsh! Most people only want the light switching off as they don't want to spend money when i try and explain the fault all I seem to be getting is " is the light off great here's the money bye!"

No you need the 4.6 cam with the dissy drive on and fit the 3.9 plenum top and you are good to go simple

Reread my post take a 4.4 block bore it out to 94.9 bore and stoked by a 4.6 crank Now we get yank power from a British v8

im greedy then got two lse soft dash original 160,000 miles unloved but on the road to recovery 100" soft dash fixed all the bugs land rover didn't handles better than any other classic in the country is one of the fastest with it original land rover engine but still well modded and get 23 mpg...

Still beat that stick fett! Me 4.6 every time. Or my soon to be done p76 block bored and stroked and cross bolted 4.4 or 6.8?

My d2 is running a 10.25-1 compression fully lightened and ballanced bottom end pocket pistons and a piper 285 cam and super size valves and fully ported heads and manifolds and headman headers and running a stock Thor injection system averaging 25 mpg stupid power from idle even pulls away in...

have you check the gems and thor engine at idle for oil pressure? next to none not like the older engine

what you have to consider here is bodging or doing on the cheap aint worth it! my blocks are supplied with new core plugs top hat linners and new cam bearings not many do that in the blocks! i would be inclined to also change the rad,state,pump and heater o rings. and when you put it back...

roll of a cliff lol! chop it in a for a v8! lol only joking have tried a larger intercooler? was it a chip job or a proper remap was you asked what power or was it just a fixed down load?

OK here my 20p have rebuilt 3 engines all at the 100,000-120,000 miles with cam chain failures due to lack of oil changes due to the converter telling the customer it can do longer periods between oil changes! the amount of running faults caused by badly fitted conversions will drive you mad...

Was the cap and rotor dealer gen not Lucas crap in a green box?! Cold start prob is proberly coolant temp sensor

Let's start at the top the only good followers to fit are the genuine dealer supplied ones period! Again the only good ignition parts are dealer only period! Plenty of the aftermarket say it's gen spec but it ain't most on here know the supplier! Go back to basics the fpr will over pressure...

Is it poor starting? Suspect coolant temp sensor