Im back with yet another problem on my 2004 D2 td5 Landmark

korthaldisco2 · Monday at 14:42

Hi,

I have had a couple of issues;

Back story- i have just installed European headlights and had a contrôlé technique where the car went up on a ramp and the guy completed an inspection underneath.

Yesterday I had the two green lights (m and s each letter is in a circular cog) flashing on the cluster which when I looked online they are apparently for a transmission fault. I cycled through all gear stick modes turned the ignition off and on and the lights turned off. I was stationary so dont know if it actually went into a limp mode. I then drove 4.5hours through the alps to the south of France without issue in 30° plus tempretures. The car behaved very well.

Today the car wouldnt start unless I took the key out and pressed lock unlock then it would start. The four times I turned off on this morning each time the car would not start without removing the key cycling the locking. Then it would go.

I drove about 20 mins after the above went for a walk and when I come back to the car a few hours later the key fob wasnt working.

I had to enter the code with the key to disarm the immobiliser. I changed the battery in the fob i had a spare duracell battery with me. (I only changed the first battery 4 weeks ago) also the red light on the fob was working before I changed the battery and after with the new one.

the spare key is at home 4.5 hours away. So i cant test that.

What can cause the fob to suddenly just stop working?

Many thanks

sierrafery · Monday at 16:49

Hi, you'll have to check with the second fob too and if it's the same the RF receiver is the first suspect which would cause the starting issue too cos it doesnt communicate with the passive remmobilisation exciter coil then that suplimentary unlock command with the fob is needed to remmobilise it for 15 seconds, the receiver is in front of the rear sunroof's seal under the headliner and it's plug and play ... he best is to disable the immoiliser with nanocom or similar and set it to "always ..." see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/recommendation-for-d2-owners.184078/

korthaldisco2 · Monday at 20:05

sierrafery said:
Hi, you'll have to check with the second fob too and if it's the same the RF receiver is the first suspect which would cause the starting issue too cos it doesnt communicate with the passive remmobilisation exciter coil then that suplimentary unlock command with the fob is needed to remmobilise it for 15 seconds, the receiver is in front of the rear sunroof's seal under the headliner and it's plug and play ... he best is to disable the immoiliser with nanocom or similar and set it to "always ..." see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/recommendation-for-d2-owners.184078/

Thank you for the information above.

I will check with the 2nd fob. I wont be able to check that until Wednesday.

Is it possible the M +S fault is connected to the key fob and starting issue?

sierrafery · Monday at 20:22

korthaldisco2 said:
Is it possible the M +S fault is connected to the key fob and starting issue?

In a very strange way it can be connected if the problem comes from the BCU which affects them all, you'll have to see the stored fault code in the autobox ECU but as long as it didnt affect anything the M +S can be a sign of weak battery too... investigations are needed

korthaldisco2 · Monday at 20:38

sierrafery said:
In a very strange way it can be connected if the problem comes from the BCU which affects them all, you'll have to see the stored fault code in the autobox ECU but as long as it didnt affect anything the M +S can be a sign of weak battery too... investigations are needed

I read a post where you talk about the the xyz switch position and if the BCU doesnt receive input it can inhibit the starter relay.

I dont have nanocom equipment and cant afford it either or cant justify spending another 400-500 on the car again in the same week.

Is this what owning a LR is about constant cost and problems???

sierrafery · Monday at 21:13

korthaldisco2 said:
I read a post where you talk about the the xyz switch position and if the BCU doesnt receive input it can inhibit the starter relay.

The XYZ or starter inhbitor has nothing to do with your problem or with the fob's misbehaviour nor responding to the EKA code remobilisation, it's something else, probably BCU related but not subject of a guessing game without proper diagnoze.

korthaldisco2 said:
Is this what owning a LR is about constant cost and problems???

Seems so ... at least untill the problems were all properly fixed and you learn how it works ... like i did, took me about 10 years and i invested in diagnostic tools but now i'm problem free with it or if they appear i know what to do

Stanleysteamer · Tuesday at 11:31

sierrafery said:
The XYZ or starter inhbitor has nothing to do with your problem or with the fob's misbehaviour nor responding to the EKA code remobilisation, it's something else, probably BCU related but not subject of a guessing game without proper diagnoze.

Seems so ... at least untill the problems were all properly fixed and you learn how it works ... like i did, took me about 10 years and i invested in diagnostic tools but now i'm problem free with it or if they appear i know what to do

And thanks to you, so do a lot of us, me included!!

korthaldisco2 · Tuesday at 16:15

sierrafery said:
In a very strange way it can be connected if the problem comes from the BCU which affects them all, you'll have to see the stored fault code in the autobox ECU but as long as it didnt affect anything the M +S can be a sign of weak battery too... investigations are needed

Hi,

I just travelled 4.5hrs in the disco and up a mountain to 1000m altitude without any issues got home and the other key works fine!! Locks/unlock the car starts without issue but the other key is still not working.

After reading more I think I caused the M+S fault lights with poor use of the gear selector. By confusing the ECU. Thats my theory.

Thanks for the advice and help.

korthaldisco2 · Tuesday at 19:05

To be fair to LR and my Disco. Its actually been reliable. I have done three long journeys and not had a single mechanical issue. The car drives really nice, its a pleasure to drive. The actual working of the of the engine and driving I cant fault it. Today 4.5 hour journey climbing steep mountain roads in 30°+ temps. I dont want to get rid of it. I love driving it.

korthaldisco2 · Thursday at 09:08

sierrafery said:
Hi, you'll have to check with the second fob too and if it's the same the RF receiver is the first suspect which would cause the starting issue too cos it doesnt communicate with the passive remmobilisation exciter coil then that suplimentary unlock command with the fob is needed to remmobilise it for 15 seconds, the receiver is in front of the rear sunroof's seal under the headliner and it's plug and play ... he best is to disable the immoiliser with nanocom or similar and set it to "always ..." see this https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/recommendation-for-d2-owners.184078/

Hi,

Can I ask a question please;

If I disconnect the cable to the drivers door lock can I lock/unlock the car with the key without setting the immobiliser. Then once open the drivers door use the dash button to unlock the rest of the doors?

The second fob has started playing up..

I will need to buy a new receiver.

By plug and play you mean no diagnostic required to make it work?

Many thanks,

sierrafery · Thursday at 09:19

korthaldisco2 said:
If I disconnect the cable to the drivers door lock can I lock/unlock the car with the key without setting the immobiliser. Then once open the drivers door use the dash button to unlock the rest of the doors?

You'll be able to unlock the doors with driver door disconnected but the immoiliser will still be active as it didnt get the unlock command from the fob, the only way to remobilise a locked vehicle on factory alarm setting is by unlocking with the fob or if the fob doesnt work then with EKA code hence my recommendation in the link from my first reply.

korthaldisco2 said:
By plug and play you mean no diagnostic required to make it work?

Yes

korthaldisco2 · Thursday at 09:55

sierrafery said:
You'll be able to unlock the doors with driver door disconnected but the immoiliser will still be active as it didnt get the unlock command from the fob, the only way to remobilise a locked vehicle on factory alarm setting is by unlocking with the fob or if the fob doesnt work then with EKA code hence my recommendation in the link from my first reply.

Yes

Ok thank you.

Can I buy a cheaper diagnostic tool which will work to disable the immobiliser than the nanocom?

Do I still need a new rf receiver is that correct? Aswell as turning off the immobiliser?

Do you think it makes sense to buy a diagnostic tool before buying the RF receiver incase this part is not the problem.

Many thanks

korthaldisco2 · Thursday at 10:30

sierrafery said:
You'll be able to unlock the doors with driver door disconnected but the immoiliser will still be active as it didnt get the unlock command from the fob, the only way to remobilise a locked vehicle on factory alarm setting is by unlocking with the fob or if the fob doesnt work then with EKA code hence my recommendation in the link from my first reply.

Yes

Hi,

I just went out to the car and the 2nd fob is working fine Again.

I just checked the RF receiver unit to verify I was going to order the correct part as it would appear there is different frequency units. 315 and 433 mhz. Mine is 433.

My existing unit has the wording written on the side "Dry roof only" also someone has installed a plastic barrier between the roof and the receiver unit..!?

Today we have had heavy rain all morning and its completely dry inside and around the receiver. The other day when experiencing issues with fob1 it hadnt rained previously.

it has been really hot though.

Thanks.

korthaldisco2 · Thursday at 11:45

How obvious would corrosion be on the BCU earth?

The thing is surely if the BCU had a bad earth I would be experiencing other electrical issues a given it controls alot of other functions apart from the central locking?

I need to test the battery for sure.

Before ordering a new RF receiver maybe I should check the Earth strap on the receiver itself.

One thing that just come to mind last week I jump started a neighbours car and I didnt see if the guy connected the negative lead first.. If that was the case could this of caused some electrical issues? After racking my brains its the only thing I can think of.

sierrafery · Thursday at 12:35

korthaldisco2 said:
How obvious would corrosion be on the BCU earth?

That would give much more trouble, the receivers are common failure even if it's dry cos condensation happens too

korthaldisco2 · Thursday at 13:24

sierrafery said:
That would give much more trouble, the receivers are common failure even if it's dry cos condensation happens too

Ok cheers I will order a new receiver now.

Is there anything I can do to protect the new receiver from condensation?

Obviously keep damp stuff out the car and ensure no leaks in sunroofs. But any other things i can do?

I was just reading about 2004 td5 Can you please confirm if they work with OBII diagnostic readers?

If you know please which other diagnostic devices can read/delete fault codes and change immobiliser settings than the nanocom.

Thanks alot for the time and help.

sierrafery · Thursday at 13:32

korthaldisco2 said:
I was just reading about 2004 td5 Can you please confirm if they work with OBII diagnostic readers?

If you know please which other diagnostic devices can read/delete fault codes and change immobiliser settings than the nanocom.

OBD2 will not work, for complex BCU settings i dont know cheaper than nanocom eventually if you find a second hand hawkeye like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1058983729?iid=226913402823

Im back with yet another problem on my 2004 D2 td5 Landmark

korthaldisco2

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