P38A Air suspension won't rise

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the emergency valves seem good , getting air back into the system is going to be my issue,

the air lines that go into the compressor box , would it be possible to put an air fittin on that and fill it up with a tire pump?
If the pump is not refurbished yet, just put the valves on the four airlines that go to the airbags. Tyre pump might do it, but most are only good for 35-40psi. The airbags need about 50-60psi for standard height.

Once the airbags & pump are sorted, just get the system running & clear faults with EASunlock. It should then rise automatically, assuming nothing else needs replacing.

If you're getting a garage to do the airbags (usually a bad idea), they could inflate it using their workshop compressor. Otherwise drive it to Langley on the bumps & I will inflate it for free !! (and double check diags)
 
You dont have to pay for it, classic version is the same and works I think. but you will need the right leads, which could take some time to get and some can be a bit hit an miss, but worth it for the future.
But if its a keeper maybe spend on a Nanocom (for sale by @doriz at the moment) transfer fees are extra and out of my pay grade.

If they are all flat (on stops) jacking it up will remove any pressure anyway :).

J
I sold my 38 to someone who said confidently oh my mate is a mechanic legend. After locking himself out of the car, buggering up the sync etc it lays idol on his drive. However, I did as a good chap lend him the nano to resolve the issue for which I got a surprise bullseye for the deed.

You cannot run a P38 without a Nanocom, fact. Me and a pal set up the suspension using the Nanocom and approved spacers. I used to have to reset the suspension ‘monthly with a sync mate. Once calibrated, no issues, nano paid for itself.
 
I sold my 38 to someone who said confidently oh my mate is a mechanic legend. After locking himself out of the car, buggering up the sync etc it lays idol on his drive. However, I did as a good chap lend him the nano to resolve the issue for which I got a surprise bullseye for the deed.

You cannot run a P38 without a Nanocom, fact. Me and a pal set up the suspension using the Nanocom and approved spacers. I used to have to reset the suspension ‘monthly with a sync mate. Once calibrated, no issues, nano paid for itself.
And you still have it for sale, discounted for a member, don’t you?

J
 
They are normal tyre valves, put a portable air compressor on and up you go.

J
I am new to the P38 so I apologise for all the questions.

Do you have to pull out each air line in the box or would it make more sense to thread onto where the original compressor fits on. ( The blue air line next to the valve block int he engine bay)
 
I am new to the P38 so I apologise for all the questions.

Do you have to pull out each air line in the box or would it make more sense to thread onto where the original compressor fits on. ( The blue air line next to the valve block int he engine bay)
For the schrader valves, pop the lines out of the valve block, easy enough, push in on the collet ring, then pull on the pipe. Going in from the compressor feed will do nothing if there is a fault present.
 
How did you deflate the air suspension? (For future reference)
I Searched online and found people talking about easunlock , but it seems you have to pay for the P38 version.

Is there a way to manually deflate them without just getting angry and sticking a knife in it?
Didi deflate? I can't remember. But i did have a nanocom.
Otherwise set to access mode.. jack up so the wheel is off the ground (need to do that anyways) and i can't imagine there's much pressure in there
 
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Didi delayed? I can't remember. But i did have a nanocom.
Otherwise set to access mode.. jack up so the wheel is off the ground (need to do that anyways) and i can't imagine there's much pressure in there
So I presume jack it up put it on a jack stand either side disconnect the r clip and air line then lower the jack to get the bags out? ( For the rear ) Is that correct
 
Jack under the chassis to extend the bag for removal, second jack under the axle for refitting. do not lower the chassis until there is air in the bag.
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Is it a requirement to remove the wheel , looking in other sites some people claim to have done it.

Not an issue if you do I just have limited space
 
I am new to the P38 so I apologise for all the questions.

Do you have to pull out each air line in the box or would it make more sense to thread onto where the original compressor fits on. ( The blue air line next to the valve block int he engine bay)
They can be fitted directly onto each (4x) lines individually or fitted with a T piece and left in place with compressor and valve block in place.
Pull the relay and the compressor and valve block do nothing.

J
 
I am new to the P38 so I apologise for all the questions.

Do you have to pull out each air line in the box or would it make more sense to thread onto where the original compressor fits on. ( The blue air line next to the valve block int he engine bay)
Yes you can just fit one scrader valve in place of the compressor, but you will also need to activate the diaphragm valve to fill the tank. This also assumes there are no other leaks. The problem with this approach is the tank will get emptied while driving as the system adjusts. Hence the 4-valves on the airbags as a "get you home" solution

I do similar in my garage when using either my manual control box or the EAS ECU. Garage airline connected to the pump airline via a 12V solenoid valve. 12V valve is connected to thge pump 12V & thermal sensor wire grounded.

Then when the ECU tries to fill the tank, it opens the valve (plus closes diapgragm) and my garage compressor fills the tank. The rest of the system can then go upo & down as much as I want without wearing out the pump.
 
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