Disco 2 Bstard bolt came loose on oil pump follow up

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davethebuilder

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somerset
Okay so sump off and check crankshaft for damage taking one main crank cap of at a time and then replacing they have stamped numbers on 1 to 5 the only one that was damaged was No 3 where the crank main bearings had spun but managed to get another from a breakers near me.Then took off the conrod shell caps off one at a time and when replacing they must be put back exactly as removed or will not fit back nicely because the conrods are fractured when made in production so you will find the mating faces are rough and only sit nicely in one direction mine actually had factory markings on from when the engine was built (conrod 1 had 1 and 1 marked on conrod 2 had 2 and 2 marked on etc with engineers marking pen) this help me put them back correctly . I bought full set of shells for conrods 10 off and full set for main crank bolt 12 off plus all new stretch bolts 12 for main crank and 10 for conrods with a complete sump gasket set from turner engineering who are very helpful.So I replaced all the main crank bearing shells with oil holes at top and plane shells in bottom cups the con rod shells are all plain.I only tightened to 20Nm at this stage and turned the crank by hand with ratchet and socket to make sure nothing was binding up (I did one bearing at a time) when I changed No three conrod it all went tight so removed cap at slid the piston up the bore slightly to see what the problem was even though I cleaned every part of the bottom end with brake cleaner 6 cans I noticed a small fragment of destroyed shell still on the crank which I carefully picked off and gave the crank a light polish using 600 grit wet and dry with oil on replace the shell with new oil on its face and the crank freed up oiled and torqued up all the stretch bolts .Then pump back on bolts with locktite and new sprocket bolt with plenty of locktite new sump gasket and sump back on fresh oil and filters. I fitted a pressure gauge in the pressure switch hole and then with great fear turned her over. The old girl started right up and the gauge showed just over three bar at cold tick over she sounded as good as always to my great relief only issue I had was the sump gasket leaked at the rear nearside corner so sump of again tomorrow !!!
 
davethebuilder said:
Okay so sump off and check crankshaft for damage taking one main crank cap of at a time and then replacing they have stamped numbers on 1 to 5 the only one that was damaged was No 3 where the crank main bearings had spun but managed to get another from a breakers near me.Then took off the conrod shell caps off one at a time and when replacing they must be put back exactly as removed or will not fit back nicely because the conrods are fractured when made in production so you will find the mating faces are rough and only sit nicely in one direction mine actually had factory markings on from when the engine was built (conrod 1 had 1 and 1 marked on conrod 2 had 2 and 2 marked on etc with engineers marking pen) this help me put them back correctly . I bought full set of shells for conrods 10 off and full set for main crank bolt 12 off plus all new stretch bolts 12 for main crank and 10 for conrods with a complete sump gasket set from turner engineering who are very helpful.So I replaced all the main crank bearing shells with oil holes at top and plane shells in bottom cups the con rod shells are all plain.I only tightened to 20Nm at this stage and turned the crank by hand with ratchet and socket to make sure nothing was binding up (I did one bearing at a time) when I changed No three conrod it all went tight so removed cap at slid the piston up the bore slightly to see what the problem was even though I cleaned every part of the bottom end with brake cleaner 6 cans I noticed a small fragment of destroyed shell still on the crank which I carefully picked off and gave the crank a light polish using 600 grit wet and dry with oil on replace the shell with new oil on its face and the crank freed up oiled and torqued up all the stretch bolts .Then pump back on bolts with locktite and new sprocket bolt with plenty of locktite new sump gasket and sump back on fresh oil and filters. I fitted a pressure gauge in the pressure switch hole and then with great fear turned her over. The old girl started right up and the gauge showed just over three bar at cold tick over she sounded as good as always to my great relief only issue I had was the sump gasket leaked at the rear nearside corner so sump of again tomorrow !!!
Click to expand...
Great news!
 
I echo what @PopPops says. I do hope it all holds together.

As a result of what has happened to you, and to kick off my so far laziness and complacency, I too am going to take my sump off and replace said bolt. All parts on order and will do it as soon as poss.
Only slight pain is that RTV in France is a hell of a price. And am not looking forward to laying beads down on a horizontal surface above me. Am more used to putting them down on the top of summat, like a Citroen C3 sump. Which I could do with it lying on the bench in front of me.
Do hope it all holds to gether and gives you many more K miles! :):):)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
I echo what @PopPops says. I do hope it all holds together.

As a result of what has happened to you, and to kick off my so far laziness and complacency, I too am going to take my sump off and replace said bolt. All parts on order and will do it as soon as poss.
Only slight pain is that RTV in France is a hell of a price. And am not looking forward to laying beads down on a horizontal surface above me. Am more used to putting them down on the top of summat, like a Citroen C3 sump. Which I could do with it lying on the bench in front of me.
Do hope it all holds to gether and gives you many more K miles! :):):)
Click to expand...
Thanks Stanleysteamer I will be using extra rtv this time!!!
 
davethebuilder said:
Thanks Stanleysteamer I will be using extra rtv this time!!!
Click to expand...
sorry to bother you and it may be too late anyway, but is there any chance you could take pics of where you have to put the RTV, the one longish line and the two shorter ones?
I'd be ever so grateful as I cannot seem to work out where they go. I've seen the drawings in Rave....
I do have yet to take the sump off as stuff hasn't arrived yet.
i might be over thinking this as it may be obvious once I start.
I just don't know.
Ta
Stan:)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
sorry to bother you and it may be too late anyway, but is there any chance you could take pics of where you have to put the RTV, the one longish line and the two shorter ones?
I'd be ever so grateful as I cannot seem to work out where they go. I've seen the drawings in Rave....
I do have yet to take the sump off as stuff hasn't arrived yet.
i might be over thinking this as it may be obvious once I start.
I just don't know.
Ta
Stan:)
Click to expand...
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html Hi Stanleysteamer please paste this into your search bar it gives you all the info you need on replacing bolt and gasket. When you have removed the sump you will notice toward the rear there is a separate casting which holds the main crank seal this is where you put the long bead of rtv all the way along and past the joining faces you will also see at the front where there are the mating faces for the front seal casting this is where the two small beads go .I hope this helps you sorry but I didn't take any photos!!!
 
davethebuilder said:
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html Hi Stanleysteamer please paste this into your search bar it gives you all the info you need on replacing bolt and gasket. When you have removed the sump you will notice toward the rear there is a separate casting which holds the main crank seal this is where you put the long bead of rtv all the way along and past the joining faces you will also see at the front where there are the mating faces for the front seal casting this is where the two small beads go .I hope this helps you sorry but I didn't take any photos!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks very much. The explanation of where to put the RTV really helps.
Hope it doesn't leak any more after you latest effort!:):):)
 
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